An afternoon in Colonial Maryland
A friend of mine recommended Historic St. Mary’s City in Southern Maryland as a weekend destination numerous times, but up until this point I haven’t followed up with the suggestion. I kept saying I was waiting for a Sunday to go, because they tend to be quieter in towns or cities, but always found somewhere else to go or something else to do. Finally, I just admitted my Sundays are tied up, so I just went.
Point Lookout
Now, the driving directions from the DC area are very simple. Get off the beltway and follow a state route to its end, where one turn is made. Yeah, well, I still messed it up. I thought I was being smart and took an assumed short cut. It might have been a good choice, had I not made a wrong turn.
State Park
Having mistakenly followed MD Route 5 to the park gates, I asked the park ranger if I could just turn around. I wasn’t prepared to pay the cash fee nor did I want to since I wasn’t sticking around. He was nice enough to let me and said I could drive to the end of the park road to circle around if I wanted. Of course, I’m not one to miss a great photo opportunity, so I took him up on the offer.
Chesapeake Bay shore
Point Lookout Lighthouse
The park was beautiful. The road, which ran along the Bay, was lined with fisherman. At the end sits the Point Lookout Lighthouse, which is currently a museum open for tours. Built in 1830, it marked the mouth of the Potomac River on the Chesapeake Bay.
Memorial Park
The Confederate Memorial Park sits right outside of the State Park, where the original POW camp was located. The park was established by the Decedents of Point Lookout POW Organization to honor the Confederate military members and civilians imprisoned at the Civil War camp.
Confederate Memorial Park
Point Lookout Confederate Prisoners-of-War Memorial
The focal point of the park is a large Confederate POW Memorial. It’s lined with the various Confederate state flags, with a POW statue in the middle.
Civil War Cemetery
Point Lookout Confederate Soldiers and Sailors Monument
Maryland State Confederate POW Memorial
Not far from the park sits the Point Lookout Confederate Cemetery, which is maintained by the Department of Veteran Affairs. The POW camp, formerly a Union Civil War hospital on Point Lookout, housed over 50,000 prisoners during its operation. More than 4,000 died while there and were buried in nearby plots.
The state of Maryland exhumed the unidentifiable remains from their original burial spots and reinterred them further inland in a newly established cemetery. The state also erected a marble monument in 1876 to those Confederate buried in the large common grave. In 1910, the Federal Government assumed responsibility for the cemetery and erected the large granite monument to the Rebel soldiers and sailors lost at the POW camp, listing the known individuals.
All in all, I’d say this little gem of a location was a good find. I’d like to revisit the park at some point. Maybe tour the lighthouse, relax near the water or enjoy the open space.
Historic St. Mary’s
Eventually, I did make it to Saint Mary’s city, an outdoor living history museum dedicated to the first capital of the fourth permanent English settlement in America.
Woodland Indian Hamlet
Indian Hut
The site’s Indian Village was a very happening place. Apparently today is “Woodland Indian Discovery Day,” and there were tons of family activities going on in the area. That being said, I stayed as far away as possible, but it also meant the rest of the park was relatively vacant, which was nice.
St. Mary’s City
Chapel
Old State Hall
Ordinary
Framed Town Buildings
There are several reconstructed buildings within the state run museum, including the newly finished brick chapel. The volunteer stationed at the chapel said it was to be officially opened this up-coming week. Apparently, the original was locked by the town sheriff under orders from the English monarchy, and will be unlocked by the current town sheriff. The building is considered an important one in the museum, as the state was founded on principles of religious tolerance.
The 17th-Century State House was also rebuilt. It housed the state government until 1695, when the capital was moved to Annapolis. Various other common period buildings are on exhibit as well, including an Ordinary, which is basically a small bed-and-breakfast.
The rest of the museum structures are framed buildings, which mark actual buildings found during the archeological exploration of the site. The original foundations and such are considerably well preserved because the land has been left relatively undisturbed since the city was abandoned.
Colonial Ship
Maryland Dove
A replica of the Dove, one of the two ships that brought the state’s original settlers over, is docked on the bay.
Godiah Spray Tobacco Plantation
Spray House
Gohiah Spray, my guide
House Gardens
Small Sunflowers
The tobacco plantation was an interesting exhibit. ‘Gohiah Spray,’ himself showed me around the property. His seven-year–old son’s tobacco barn. The wild pigs on his property, destined to be dinner for his daughter’s up-coming wedding. His wife’s house gardens. His two story home, which shows his wealth. The sunflowers he picked for his wife. We covered quite a bit.
Today’s Flickr set: exhibit photos
A glimpse of War in the Valley
New Market Battlefield State Historical Park & Hall of Valor Civil War Museum
New Market, VA
and
Cedar Creek and Belle Grove National Historical Park
b/w Middletown & Strasburg, VA
Today I decided to take a trip into my past. My father’s family lived in the Shenandoah Valley throughout my childhood, so I spent a lot of time in the area. Not to mention, it’s were my parents lived during the first years of marriage and where I was actually born. Anyway, I haven’t been back in years, so I decided to drive down, hitting a couple of Civil War battlefields along the way.
New Market Battlefield
The Battle of New Market occurred in May during the Valley Campaigns of 1864. MG John Breckinridge’s Confederate troops, including the Virginia Military Institute’s (VMI) Corps of Cadets, attacked Union MG Franz Sigel’s army outside of the small town. The cadets were intended to remain in reserve, however ordered to the front to reinforce the weakened Confederate center. Their brave service is a continued point of pride for the institute, with several traditions surrounding the events of that day.
Hall of Valor
New Market Cadet gravestones & VMI Hall of Valor Museum
A semi-circle of six gravestones sits outside of the battlefield’s visitor center/museum. The stones are for six of the ten cadets lost in the battle, including five killed in action and one who died within days. The missing four died of complications due to their wounds over a course of months. The memorials were originally placed on VMI’s campus, but were later replaced by new memorial stones, with the additional four.
The museum is dedicated to the battle, particularly the cadets involved, and the war in general. The exhibits were nice. They were very eye-catching. The upper level of “The Virginia Room” is lined with sections summarizing each year of the Civil War, with the lower level displaying artifacts from the battle and war in general.
Field of Honor
19th Century Bushlong Farm
Field of Lost Shoes
von Kleiser’s Union battery position
The Bushlong family’s farm was the center of the battle line, with its fields baring witness to the fierce fighting. The house, in which the family hid in the basement, was used as a Confederate field hospital and is currently set up with displays showing the lifestyle of the time.
The wheat field north of the Bushlong’s orchard, which came to be known as the Field of Lost Shoes, was the main Confederate attack field during the battle. The Corps of Cadets, holding the Confederate center, charged out of the orchard across the fence, rushing toward the Union line.
The Union artillery, sitting across the field from the Confederate position, was abandoned after its infantry support retreated and captured by Rebel forces. The entire Yankee line in the wheat field area was assaulted and driven from the field.
Misc
Shenandoah Valley scenic overlook
While walking back from the Field of Lost Shoes, there was a gorgeous scenic overlook into the Valley. Definitely worth a stop.
This morning’s Flickr set: New Market pics
The Battle of Cedar Creek, the final of the Valley Campaigns of 1864, took place in mid-October. In the morning, Confederate MG Jubal Early’s Third Corps surprised MG Philip Sheridan’s Union Army of the Shenandoah, catching the Yankees off guard and pushing two Corps back. Eventually, the Union VIII Corps was able to organize an adequate defense, draining the Rebels of their momentum. After a brief cease-fire, the Union army counter-attacked and crushed their Confederate opponents.
The battlefield is a mixture of National Park, foundation-owned and privately-owned property. Apparently, most of it belongs to the Cedar Creek Battlefield and Belle Grove Plantation Foundations, preservation foundations working to accumulate the remainder of the land. Very little of the battlefield is currently maintained by the National Park Service.
Anyway, because of this, there isn’t an official tour route for the park. At the battlefield visitor center this book was recommended to me as a guide for an adequate, organized tour. It’s extremely interesting, as it gives a lot more information about the area, but I need more time to figure out the suggested trail. I’m going to read through the book, then go back. However, since I was there, I stopped at two main pieces of the battlefield for a preview.
Belle Grove Manor
Plantation fields & Cedar Creek Battlefield
The Belle Grove estate was home to Maj. Isaac Hite and his wife Nelly Conway Madison, James Madison’s sister. During the battle, the property was front and center for much of the fighting. The mansion itself was used as Sheridan’s headquarters.
Currently, the house is open for tours, although, I chose to skip it due to time restraints. The grounds include several outbuildings, a barn, small garden and slave cemetery. The estate is gorgeous.
Union Trench line
Union XIX Corps trench section
A half-mile trail follows a section of MG William Emory’s Eleventh Corps trench line. The trail begins at an easy to miss gravel road off of Route 11, but once you find it, for the most part well-marked as it cuts through the thick woods. The trenches are relatively well preserved.
I’ve been to several battlefields with earthworks remaining, but have yet to find a way to effectively photograph them. Because the images are flat, it’s often hard to see the faint overgrown trenches. Oh well, I know what I’m looking at and maybe one day I’ll figure something better out.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: Cedar Creek pics
Day 3: The end of a war and beginning of a nation
Yorktown Victory Center
and
Yorktown Battlefield
Yorktown, VA
Appropriately, the final leg of our trip through Colonial America was essentially where it ended, Yorktown. The small port town along the York River hosted the final major battle of the American Revolution, effectively ending the war and giving the United States its independence. Similar to Jamestown, there are two spots to visit around the Yorktown Battlefield. There’s a privately-maintained museum and the actual battlefield, maintained by the National Park Service.
Yorktown Victory Center
Museum
“Road to Revolution” Timeline
Galleries
The path to the main galleries was lined with panels listing the major events and several noteworthy quotes from the period leading up to the Revolutionary War creating a timeline.
The galleries were very well done. The exhibits were excellent. They were very visually pleasing, there’s just a LOT of information there. It’s almost overwhelming. We skimmed through a most of it, but had to skip parts to save time. Unfortunately, we had to be the rain coming in and still had an eight hour drive ahead.
Continental Army Encampment
Officer’s Tent
A tool to drill into a skull (how appropriate)
Musket Firing Demonstration
In the camp, we stopped by almost every station to ask a few question. On one end, we had an opportunity to learn and play a few games the Continental Army soldiers would have passed the time with. At Camp Surgeon’s tent we had a hands-on lesson regarding the time-period’s medical instruments, with a brief explanation of their treatment philosophies. Finally, at the weapons corner, we were treated to a private musket firing demonstration.
Cannon Firing Demonstration
Before leaving, we returned to the camp for an artillery firing demonstration. It was pretty cool, but the lead up was rather lengthy. Unlike most artillery demonstration I’ve seen, they really focused on involving the younger crowd, unfortunately, it bored me.
1780’s Farm
Farm Kitchen
At first the farm seemed like a random addition to a Revolutionary War museum, but I eventually figured it out and it made complete sense. Considering Yorktown ended the war (and the museum is focused on that particular battle), the exhibit gives a glimpse of life in the newly-independent America. Duh…
This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*photography was not permitted inside the galleries
Colonial National Historical Park – Yorktown Battlefield
The battlefield was the site of two sieges over a course of 100 years, planning a role in two of the most significant wars to take place in this country. The first, and more notable, ended the American Revolution, while the second occurred near the beginning of the Civil War.
American Revolution
In September 1781, the American army under George Washington and French forces under Comte de Rochambeau marched from New York to join the Americans under Marquis de Lafayette holding the British Army at Yorktown. The three armies took position surrounding the trapped Brits under Lord Cornwallis, as the French Fleet, under Comte de Grasse, formed a blockade around the port. After a week of artillery bombardment and infantry attacks during the First Siege of Yorktown, Cornwallis reluctantly surrendered his army.
~British Forces~
British Inner Defense Line
We started in enemy territory, where the visitor center is, and walked along the British inner defense trench line. As the three Allied armies converged on Yorktown, Cornwallis pulled his forces back to this line, where they remained through the siege.
~Allied Forces~
Artillery at the French Trench Overlook
French Grand Battery
An American Battery along the Second Allied Siege Line
The French Grand Battery was the largest gun placement on the first Allied siege line when it opened fire on the Brits. Within a few days after commencing their bombardment, the allied forces pushed forward and constructed a second siege line.
Civil War
During MG George B. McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign, Confederate forces reconstructed and occupied some of the former British breastworks to defend the town. The Second Siege of Yorktown took place in April between McClellan’s Army of the Potomac and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson’s Army of Northern Virginia. The month-long siege accomplished very little other than delaying McClellan’s advance north, as the Confederates quietly withdrew toward Richmond before any major action took place.
Yorktown National Cemetery
I saw very little within the field itself regarding the Civil War battle, however, a National Cemetery did sit proudly in the midst of the Revolutionary trenches and markers. Over 2,000 soldiers, including 10 Confederates, were interred, with most being unknown.
Unfortunately, our visit was cut short by a storm. It started pouring while we were exploring the second Allied siege line, so we left. It was kind of disappointing, but really, overall we were pretty lucky this weekend. The weather held up long enough for us to fit in 4 1/4 of the five sites. Not bad. I’ll just have to make another trip down to finish the battlefield tour. Again, not bad.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: battlefield pics
Day 2: In the midst of a revolt
Colonial Williamsburg
Williamsburg, VA
We went to the recreated/restored city of Williamsburg on our second day. The 1700′s Virginia State capital was instrumental in the country’s push to break ties with the English crown. Many of the country’s Founding Fathers walked these streets.
Colonial Williamsburg
Duke of Gloucester Street, at the Silversmith and Milliner & Tailor shops
Horse and Carriage
The streets, including the main Duke of Gloucester Street, were lined with small trade shops and exhibit sites. The trade shops, including a wheelwright, blacksmith and silversmith, among others, were fully functional. The wheelwright apprentice told a family the shop fills order from various historical locations and museums for time-period carts and such.
Revolutionary City
The area near the Capitol is referred to as “Revolutionary City,” and hosts a living history themed program each day. Today’s theme was Collapse of the Royal Government, 1774-1776. The skits run periodically at various points within the area throughout the day.
Elizabeth Nicholas & Edmund Randolph
Guilty and sentenced
The first short program piece for the day was Star-Crossed Lovers,, depicting a budding romance between the youngest members of two dueling families. She was the daughter of the patriot, Robert C. Nicholas, while his father, John Randolph was a staunch loyalist. The two flirted for a bit, discussed an upcoming ball and left with a date to dance.
We missed most of the program, but made it back to catch A Court of Tar and Feather. A group of Continental Army soldiers took offense to a local citizen blabbering against the patriotic cause in a nearby tavern. The group pulled him out into the streets and publicly ‘tried’ him for treason. After the testimony of a bartender (both for and against the guy) and his refusal to apologize, with some encouragement from the crowd, he was ‘sentenced’ to be tarred and feathered. He did give in right before the ‘hot tar’ was slapped on his bare back and decided a public apology was the better option.
Historic Buildings
Courthouse
Magazine
Public Hospital of 1773
The local magazine is actually the original building restored. It’s also the site of a key event pushing Virginia towards a revolt. In April 1775, Virginia’s Royal Governor, Lord Dunmore, ordered the gunpowder be removed from the magazine, which infuriated the colonists. Now, it displays various weapons and other military accessories.
During the Public Hospital’s hay-day, it was a mental institute, however, now it’s the entrance to Williamsburg’s art museums. There’s a small exhibit inside dedicated to the building’s original purpose. Having spent more time than I’d like to admit in a few mental hospitals, it was frightening to see what they were like back then. Not that I believe I’d have been commit to such a place, but still. The mental health system, from my experience, has come a long way.
The museums were interesting. It was a two-for-one deal. Both the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art and DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts museums were housed together in a building behind, but connected to the Public Hospital. Of particular interest to my friend was the toys/doll house collection, which is where we concentrated our stay. It was neat. They had a few HUGE, intricately decorated houses. Wow, I can’t imagine how much time it must have taken to build them.
Royal Government
Capitol
House of Burgesses
Governor’s Palace
We started the State Capitol first thing; however, I couldn’t sit still through it. I felt like I was wasting my precious morning minutes stuck inside a building on a timed tour. The streets were relatively empty at that point giving me ample opportunity to snap a few pictures without large tourist crowds cluttering them, but I was squandering it. Therefore, we snuck out a side door to continue on our way. Once we made our first round through town, we came back to the Capitol and took the entire tour.
The H-shaped building is the third rendition, replacing the previous two destroyed by fires. During the Colonial period, the west half was considered the “King’s side,” and housed the higher legislative, executive and judicial branches of the government. The Royally appointed Virginia Governor and his Councilmen held General Court in the lower floor and privately met on the upper level. The east portion of the building was referred to as the “People’s side,” and was home to the lower house of the legislative branch, the publically elected House of Burgesses. The lower level was the official meeting room, with offices and small council rooms above.
It was in the “People’s side” where many of the American Revolution-era’s most influential people, including Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry, as Virginia’s elected politicians, began discussions against British rule and pushed for American Independence. The House of Burgesses, with its ties to the British government, was eventually replaced by the Virginia House of Delegates.
We ended the day at the Governor’s Palace. The building tour was not included in our one-day Capital City Pass, however we were allowed into the gardens. Walking around the grounds was more than enough for me. The house’s exterior and gardens were very nice, as would be expected for the home of the English crown’s representative in the colony.
Prominent Houses
Wythe Mansion
Randolph House
George Wythe was a very accomplished scholar and prominent figure in Williamsburg. He’s perhaps overshadowed by one of his most famous students, Thomas Jefferson, but he did play a significant role in movement towards the Revolution himself. As a politician, he was elected to the Continental Congress and signed the Declaration of Independence. He served as the Speaker of the Virginia House of Delegates. He educated and eventually freed his slaves, a couple who chose to stay employed by him as freemen/women. He was a leading Colonial-era scholar. He became a law professor at nearby College of William & Mary and instructed many prominent figures.
The Wythe Mansion is the original building where he and his wife lived. Apparently, even the door knobs are original, meaning I touched and turned the same knob as the likes of George Washington and Jefferson. Kind of neat. The gardens were also open to walk through. The house tour was very relaxed. Every ten minutes a small group is escorted into a small area in the yard for a brief history lesson regarding Mr. Wythe and then everyone is released to roam around at his/her own pace.
Next stop was the home of Peyton Randolph, another virtually unknown (to me) and yet influential revolutionary. Leading up to the Revolution, he seemed to head every significant meeting that took place. He served as Virginia Attorney General, the Speaker of the House of Burgesses and chairman of the Virginia Convention and the Continental Congress. He died of a stroke before signing the Declaration of Independence, thus leaving him relatively lost to history.
The house is quite large and tours are every 15 minutes. I thought the tour itself was quite interesting. Our tour guide, while seemingly rather indifferent, was quite informative. The highlight of the tour was the dining room, where the floor is still original. Once again, we were standing on the same wood flooring as George Washington.
Today’s Flickr set: town photos
Day 1: In the beginning…
Jamestown Settlement
and
Historic Jamestowne
Jamestown, VA
As a mini-vacation before the semester begins, a friend and I took a three-day weekend trip to the Williamsburg, VA area. Our first day was spent at Jamestown, the site of the first permanent English settlement in America.
Jamestown Settlement
The large, privately-maintained museum, run in conjunction with the Yorktown Victory Center, is focused on telling Jamestown’s story. It’s located within miles of the actual settlement site.
Powhatan Indian Village
Reed-covered huts
The recreated Indian Village consisted of several reed-covered huts of varying sizes. Each was set up a little differently inside. Some were very spacious and very comfortable, while others seemed rather cramped. The beds were made with animal furs and the walls lined with drying food, fur, reed-baskets and such.
Colony Pier
Aboard the Godspeed, with the Susan Constant to the right
Canon firing aboard the Susan Constant
Docked in the pier are replicas of the three ships aboard which the first colonists traveled to Jamestown, Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery. The trio carried a combined one hundred and five individuals across the Atlantic Ocean during the initial four-month journey from England to Virginia in 1607.
On a funny side note, while we were innocently touring the Susan Constant, one of the ship’s crew took a liking to my friend. Her body language and facial expressions screamed ‘leave-me-the-hell-alone,’ but that didn’t deter this guy. He showed us two of the ship’s cannons, letting her go through the motions of loading one and aim another. The good sport she is, she went along with it, and the good friend I am, I laughed the entire time.
We waited around the river for a live cannon firing demonstration aboard the Susan Constant. We were told (by my friend’s admirer) the best picture angle was on another ship, so we watched on the Godspeed.
James Fort
James Fort
The final stop was a living recreation of the 1610-14 James Fort, which housed the original settlers in the area. They had a blacksmith working, a woman making bread, several individuals discussing various aspects of early colonial life. All very interesting.
Galleries
Jamestown Galleries
The galleries were very nice. It was impressive. The exhibits were definitely top-notch. It started with an exhibit about the Virginia land, moved to the three different people and cultures, the Powhatan Indians, African slaves and English settlers, who would eventually met at Jamestown, and then the story of the settlement.
You could definitely spend an entire afternoon, if not much more, wandering through the museum. There’s a LOT of information and a LOT to see. My friend and I both agreed our brains began to hurt halfway through. Wow, it was rather overwhelming. We skimmed through the last ‘year’ in the museum and skipped the special exhibit because we were overloaded and ready for lunch.
This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*Note: Photography was not allowed within the museum galleries, so it’s just of the outdoor exhibits.
Colonial National Historical Park – Historic Jamestowne
Moving onto the actual site of the settlement, maintained by the National Parks Service.
Old Towne
“Old Towne” is the site of the 1607 James Fort. The triangular fort was built by the original settlers to protect their fledgling colony.
Jamestown Memorial Church
Captain John Smith Statue overlooking the James River
Excavating the first original well within the James Fort
The Memorial Church tower was built in 1690, making it the oldest surviving structure at the site, while the rest of the church was added in 1907. The remaining cobblestone foundation of the original 1639 church is displayed through glass panels on the inside.
Captain Smith is probably one of the most famous early settlers. He was captured by the Powhatan Indians, lived with the tribe and eventually released. He felt he was saved in some respects by the chief’s young daughter, Pocahontas. Disney even made a movie about his story. He later explored part of the Chesapeake Bay region and was elected head of the settlement, when it was struggling to survive. Under his leadership, the settlement stabilized and began to thrive.
The Jamestown Rediscovery Team of archeologists has two digs currently in progress within the presumed original site of James Fort. In the largest, they are excavating a well, which has apparently yielded a number of artifacts already. The second is near the church, where they are looking for evidence of a small cottage.
New Towne
In the 1620’s, the colonists began to expand beyond the walls of the fort creating their permanent settlement in the “New Towne” area.
Merchant Row Ruins
The remains of the Ambler House, a 1750’s Georgian-style mansion
Jamestown served as Virginia’s capital until the end of the 1690’s, making it a relatively bustling town. There were a variety of homes, taverns and shops built in this area to support the activities of the state government. The area now includes remaining foundations of large and small houses, as well as rowhouses. Interpretive boards are scattered along the walkway to help put it all in context.
After the capital was moved to Williamsburg, the island was eventually split into a couple of plantations, including one owed by the Ambler family. The remains of the family’s mansion still stand amongst the former town’s ruins.
Jamestown Island Drive
“The Gooden Weed”
View from the auto-tour
The Island Drive is a large looped road (3-5 miles) around the remaining portion of the park. It has a series of pull-offs with signs containing a painted scene and information about some piece of settlement life, such as growing tobacco or the failed venture of harvesting silk. Again, the area was gorgeous. There were several bridges over marsh areas which provided amazing views. The rest of the drive was through wooded areas.
Glasshouse
As you enter the sight, one of the first attractions is the settlement’s glassblower. The foundations of the settlement’s original glasshouse furnaces are housed in a small exhibit hut. In addition, a working studio with live demonstrations and a shop is set up.
Glassblower
The glassblower makes a different item each hour, which is then sold in the gift shop and priced base on the number that can be made within an hour. While I was there, he was making a small, clover-lipped bottle. There were some pretty amazing pieces, including this year’s collector’s piece, an extremely intricate glass horn that cost well over $100.00.
It seemed like a storm was brewing almost the entire afternoon, but fortunately, held up until we finished at the glasshouse. However, just as we walked to the car, the rain came pouring down. Talk about perfect timing.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: site photos
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