An afternoon in Colonial Maryland
A friend of mine recommended Historic St. Mary’s City in Southern Maryland as a weekend destination numerous times, but up until this point I haven’t followed up with the suggestion. I kept saying I was waiting for a Sunday to go, because they tend to be quieter in towns or cities, but always found somewhere else to go or something else to do. Finally, I just admitted my Sundays are tied up, so I just went.
Point Lookout
Now, the driving directions from the DC area are very simple. Get off the beltway and follow a state route to its end, where one turn is made. Yeah, well, I still messed it up. I thought I was being smart and took an assumed short cut. It might have been a good choice, had I not made a wrong turn.
State Park
Having mistakenly followed MD Route 5 to the park gates, I asked the park ranger if I could just turn around. I wasn’t prepared to pay the cash fee nor did I want to since I wasn’t sticking around. He was nice enough to let me and said I could drive to the end of the park road to circle around if I wanted. Of course, I’m not one to miss a great photo opportunity, so I took him up on the offer.
Chesapeake Bay shore
Point Lookout Lighthouse
The park was beautiful. The road, which ran along the Bay, was lined with fisherman. At the end sits the Point Lookout Lighthouse, which is currently a museum open for tours. Built in 1830, it marked the mouth of the Potomac River on the Chesapeake Bay.
Memorial Park
The Confederate Memorial Park sits right outside of the State Park, where the original POW camp was located. The park was established by the Decedents of Point Lookout POW Organization to honor the Confederate military members and civilians imprisoned at the Civil War camp.
Confederate Memorial Park
Point Lookout Confederate Prisoners-of-War Memorial
The focal point of the park is a large Confederate POW Memorial. It’s lined with the various Confederate state flags, with a POW statue in the middle.
Civil War Cemetery
Point Lookout Confederate Soldiers and Sailors Monument
Maryland State Confederate POW Memorial
Not far from the park sits the Point Lookout Confederate Cemetery, which is maintained by the Department of Veteran Affairs. The POW camp, formerly a Union Civil War hospital on Point Lookout, housed over 50,000 prisoners during its operation. More than 4,000 died while there and were buried in nearby plots.
The state of Maryland exhumed the unidentifiable remains from their original burial spots and reinterred them further inland in a newly established cemetery. The state also erected a marble monument in 1876 to those Confederate buried in the large common grave. In 1910, the Federal Government assumed responsibility for the cemetery and erected the large granite monument to the Rebel soldiers and sailors lost at the POW camp, listing the known individuals.
All in all, I’d say this little gem of a location was a good find. I’d like to revisit the park at some point. Maybe tour the lighthouse, relax near the water or enjoy the open space.
Historic St. Mary’s
Eventually, I did make it to Saint Mary’s city, an outdoor living history museum dedicated to the first capital of the fourth permanent English settlement in America.
Woodland Indian Hamlet
Indian Hut
The site’s Indian Village was a very happening place. Apparently today is “Woodland Indian Discovery Day,” and there were tons of family activities going on in the area. That being said, I stayed as far away as possible, but it also meant the rest of the park was relatively vacant, which was nice.
St. Mary’s City
Chapel
Old State Hall
Ordinary
Framed Town Buildings
There are several reconstructed buildings within the state run museum, including the newly finished brick chapel. The volunteer stationed at the chapel said it was to be officially opened this up-coming week. Apparently, the original was locked by the town sheriff under orders from the English monarchy, and will be unlocked by the current town sheriff. The building is considered an important one in the museum, as the state was founded on principles of religious tolerance.
The 17th-Century State House was also rebuilt. It housed the state government until 1695, when the capital was moved to Annapolis. Various other common period buildings are on exhibit as well, including an Ordinary, which is basically a small bed-and-breakfast.
The rest of the museum structures are framed buildings, which mark actual buildings found during the archeological exploration of the site. The original foundations and such are considerably well preserved because the land has been left relatively undisturbed since the city was abandoned.
Colonial Ship
Maryland Dove
A replica of the Dove, one of the two ships that brought the state’s original settlers over, is docked on the bay.
Godiah Spray Tobacco Plantation
Spray House
Gohiah Spray, my guide
House Gardens
Small Sunflowers
The tobacco plantation was an interesting exhibit. ‘Gohiah Spray,’ himself showed me around the property. His seven-year–old son’s tobacco barn. The wild pigs on his property, destined to be dinner for his daughter’s up-coming wedding. His wife’s house gardens. His two story home, which shows his wealth. The sunflowers he picked for his wife. We covered quite a bit.
Today’s Flickr set: exhibit photos
A glimpse of War in the Valley
New Market Battlefield State Historical Park & Hall of Valor Civil War Museum
New Market, VA
and
Cedar Creek and Belle Grove National Historical Park
b/w Middletown & Strasburg, VA
Today I decided to take a trip into my past. My father’s family lived in the Shenandoah Valley throughout my childhood, so I spent a lot of time in the area. Not to mention, it’s were my parents lived during the first years of marriage and where I was actually born. Anyway, I haven’t been back in years, so I decided to drive down, hitting a couple of Civil War battlefields along the way.
New Market Battlefield
The Battle of New Market occurred in May during the Valley Campaigns of 1864. MG John Breckinridge’s Confederate troops, including the Virginia Military Institute’s (VMI) Corps of Cadets, attacked Union MG Franz Sigel’s army outside of the small town. The cadets were intended to remain in reserve, however ordered to the front to reinforce the weakened Confederate center. Their brave service is a continued point of pride for the institute, with several traditions surrounding the events of that day.
Hall of Valor
New Market Cadet gravestones & VMI Hall of Valor Museum
A semi-circle of six gravestones sits outside of the battlefield’s visitor center/museum. The stones are for six of the ten cadets lost in the battle, including five killed in action and one who died within days. The missing four died of complications due to their wounds over a course of months. The memorials were originally placed on VMI’s campus, but were later replaced by new memorial stones, with the additional four.
The museum is dedicated to the battle, particularly the cadets involved, and the war in general. The exhibits were nice. They were very eye-catching. The upper level of “The Virginia Room” is lined with sections summarizing each year of the Civil War, with the lower level displaying artifacts from the battle and war in general.
Field of Honor
19th Century Bushlong Farm
Field of Lost Shoes
von Kleiser’s Union battery position
The Bushlong family’s farm was the center of the battle line, with its fields baring witness to the fierce fighting. The house, in which the family hid in the basement, was used as a Confederate field hospital and is currently set up with displays showing the lifestyle of the time.
The wheat field north of the Bushlong’s orchard, which came to be known as the Field of Lost Shoes, was the main Confederate attack field during the battle. The Corps of Cadets, holding the Confederate center, charged out of the orchard across the fence, rushing toward the Union line.
The Union artillery, sitting across the field from the Confederate position, was abandoned after its infantry support retreated and captured by Rebel forces. The entire Yankee line in the wheat field area was assaulted and driven from the field.
Misc
Shenandoah Valley scenic overlook
While walking back from the Field of Lost Shoes, there was a gorgeous scenic overlook into the Valley. Definitely worth a stop.
This morning’s Flickr set: New Market pics
The Battle of Cedar Creek, the final of the Valley Campaigns of 1864, took place in mid-October. In the morning, Confederate MG Jubal Early’s Third Corps surprised MG Philip Sheridan’s Union Army of the Shenandoah, catching the Yankees off guard and pushing two Corps back. Eventually, the Union VIII Corps was able to organize an adequate defense, draining the Rebels of their momentum. After a brief cease-fire, the Union army counter-attacked and crushed their Confederate opponents.
The battlefield is a mixture of National Park, foundation-owned and privately-owned property. Apparently, most of it belongs to the Cedar Creek Battlefield and Belle Grove Plantation Foundations, preservation foundations working to accumulate the remainder of the land. Very little of the battlefield is currently maintained by the National Park Service.
Anyway, because of this, there isn’t an official tour route for the park. At the battlefield visitor center this book was recommended to me as a guide for an adequate, organized tour. It’s extremely interesting, as it gives a lot more information about the area, but I need more time to figure out the suggested trail. I’m going to read through the book, then go back. However, since I was there, I stopped at two main pieces of the battlefield for a preview.
Belle Grove Manor
Plantation fields & Cedar Creek Battlefield
The Belle Grove estate was home to Maj. Isaac Hite and his wife Nelly Conway Madison, James Madison’s sister. During the battle, the property was front and center for much of the fighting. The mansion itself was used as Sheridan’s headquarters.
Currently, the house is open for tours, although, I chose to skip it due to time restraints. The grounds include several outbuildings, a barn, small garden and slave cemetery. The estate is gorgeous.
Union Trench line
Union XIX Corps trench section
A half-mile trail follows a section of MG William Emory’s Eleventh Corps trench line. The trail begins at an easy to miss gravel road off of Route 11, but once you find it, for the most part well-marked as it cuts through the thick woods. The trenches are relatively well preserved.
I’ve been to several battlefields with earthworks remaining, but have yet to find a way to effectively photograph them. Because the images are flat, it’s often hard to see the faint overgrown trenches. Oh well, I know what I’m looking at and maybe one day I’ll figure something better out.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: Cedar Creek pics
Day 3: The end of a war and beginning of a nation
Yorktown Victory Center
and
Yorktown Battlefield
Yorktown, VA
Appropriately, the final leg of our trip through Colonial America was essentially where it ended, Yorktown. The small port town along the York River hosted the final major battle of the American Revolution, effectively ending the war and giving the United States its independence. Similar to Jamestown, there are two spots to visit around the Yorktown Battlefield. There’s a privately-maintained museum and the actual battlefield, maintained by the National Park Service.
Yorktown Victory Center
Museum
“Road to Revolution” Timeline
Galleries
The path to the main galleries was lined with panels listing the major events and several noteworthy quotes from the period leading up to the Revolutionary War creating a timeline.
The galleries were very well done. The exhibits were excellent. They were very visually pleasing, there’s just a LOT of information there. It’s almost overwhelming. We skimmed through a most of it, but had to skip parts to save time. Unfortunately, we had to be the rain coming in and still had an eight hour drive ahead.
Continental Army Encampment
Officer’s Tent
A tool to drill into a skull (how appropriate)
Musket Firing Demonstration
In the camp, we stopped by almost every station to ask a few question. On one end, we had an opportunity to learn and play a few games the Continental Army soldiers would have passed the time with. At Camp Surgeon’s tent we had a hands-on lesson regarding the time-period’s medical instruments, with a brief explanation of their treatment philosophies. Finally, at the weapons corner, we were treated to a private musket firing demonstration.
Cannon Firing Demonstration
Before leaving, we returned to the camp for an artillery firing demonstration. It was pretty cool, but the lead up was rather lengthy. Unlike most artillery demonstration I’ve seen, they really focused on involving the younger crowd, unfortunately, it bored me.
1780’s Farm
Farm Kitchen
At first the farm seemed like a random addition to a Revolutionary War museum, but I eventually figured it out and it made complete sense. Considering Yorktown ended the war (and the museum is focused on that particular battle), the exhibit gives a glimpse of life in the newly-independent America. Duh…
This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*photography was not permitted inside the galleries
Colonial National Historical Park – Yorktown Battlefield
The battlefield was the site of two sieges over a course of 100 years, planning a role in two of the most significant wars to take place in this country. The first, and more notable, ended the American Revolution, while the second occurred near the beginning of the Civil War.
American Revolution
In September 1781, the American army under George Washington and French forces under Comte de Rochambeau marched from New York to join the Americans under Marquis de Lafayette holding the British Army at Yorktown. The three armies took position surrounding the trapped Brits under Lord Cornwallis, as the French Fleet, under Comte de Grasse, formed a blockade around the port. After a week of artillery bombardment and infantry attacks during the First Siege of Yorktown, Cornwallis reluctantly surrendered his army.
~British Forces~
British Inner Defense Line
We started in enemy territory, where the visitor center is, and walked along the British inner defense trench line. As the three Allied armies converged on Yorktown, Cornwallis pulled his forces back to this line, where they remained through the siege.
~Allied Forces~
Artillery at the French Trench Overlook
French Grand Battery
An American Battery along the Second Allied Siege Line
The French Grand Battery was the largest gun placement on the first Allied siege line when it opened fire on the Brits. Within a few days after commencing their bombardment, the allied forces pushed forward and constructed a second siege line.
Civil War
During MG George B. McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign, Confederate forces reconstructed and occupied some of the former British breastworks to defend the town. The Second Siege of Yorktown took place in April between McClellan’s Army of the Potomac and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson’s Army of Northern Virginia. The month-long siege accomplished very little other than delaying McClellan’s advance north, as the Confederates quietly withdrew toward Richmond before any major action took place.
Yorktown National Cemetery
I saw very little within the field itself regarding the Civil War battle, however, a National Cemetery did sit proudly in the midst of the Revolutionary trenches and markers. Over 2,000 soldiers, including 10 Confederates, were interred, with most being unknown.
Unfortunately, our visit was cut short by a storm. It started pouring while we were exploring the second Allied siege line, so we left. It was kind of disappointing, but really, overall we were pretty lucky this weekend. The weather held up long enough for us to fit in 4 1/4 of the five sites. Not bad. I’ll just have to make another trip down to finish the battlefield tour. Again, not bad.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: battlefield pics
A gloomy afternoon at Antietam
Sharpsburg, MD
I finished up on campus early and just needed to get out. I didn’t really have a destination, but I knew I didn’t want to go home yet, so I just drove. I’ve been a bit antsy for some reason lately and wasn’t ready to barricade myself in my room so soon in the day. I tend to isolate myself when I’m feeling this stressed… that and I have work that I need to do. Well, my little driving expedition landed me in Western Maryland. Since I was in the area (and had my camera) I stopped by Antietam National Battlefield, or more specifically the cemetery.
Cemetery
Antietam National Cemetery
Unknown Civil War Graves
The Antietam National Cemetery was created to hold the remains of those lost during the Battle of Antietam, the bloodiest single-day battle of the war, and various other engagements in the area, such as the Battles of South Mountain and Monocacy. Additionally, soldiers who died at area Union hospitals stretching from Cumberland to Frederick were interred into the cemetery, which was dedicated on September 17, 1867, the battle’s fifth anniversary.
Memorials
“Old Simon”
4th New York Infantry Monument
The cemetery’s centerpiece is the large over 21-foot marble infantryman standing at parade rest looking ‘home’ (North). The Private Soldier Monument, also known as “Old Simon,” stood guard at the 1876 Centennial Exposition gateway in Philadelphia before it travelled to the cemetery, where it was dedicated on September 17, 1880. The monument bares the simple yet poignant inscription:
But for their country
September 17, 1862
A few regimental monuments are also scattered throughout the cemetery, including the 4th New York Monument. As part of the BG Max Weber’s Third Brigade, French’s Division, MG Edwin Sumner’s Second Corps, the regiment was one of the first to assault MG D.H. Hill’s Confederate infantry entrenched in Bloody Lane. The monument lists the unit’s 35 members killed or mortally wounded in the action.
Civil War Soldiers
>F.G. Reed
Cpl. James McConnell
Pvt. Charles H. McClellan
Unknown Soldier
Four-thousand, seven hundred and seventy-six Union soldiers, with 1,836 unknown, are buried within the cemetery gates. Due to the lingering bitterness immediately following the war and the poor economic status of the South, only Union soldiers were re-interred from the battlefield.
James McConnell, a non-commissioned officer in the 4th West Virginia Infantry Regiment, Company G, died in August 1864 at the Clarysville General Hospital in Frostburg, MD. The facility was a former tavern turned Union hospital. Charles McClellan, a 7th Michigan Infantryman from Company G, died in the area on October 10, 1862. Very little was listed for the Maryland Civil War soldier F.G. Reed in the cemetery register. Many of the unknown graves are marked with small square headstones inscribed with the gravesite number, as well as the number of soldiers interred in the grave.
Post-Civil War Graves
PFC Reno E. Wyan, US Army
FN Patrick H. Roy, USN
Around 200 post-Civil War military personnel and spouses from the Spanish-American War, World War I and II and the Korean War were buried in the cemetery before it was closed in 1853. For example, Reno Emery Wyan, a local WWI infantryman, was killed in action in 1918 fighting with the 328th Regiment, 82nd Division.
In October 2000, the cemetery made an exception to allow the burial of Patrick Howard Roy. The 19-year-old local Keedysville resident was killed in the suicide bombing of the USS Cole in Aden Harbor, Yemen, while stationed in the destroyer’s engine room.
Today’s Flickr set: cemetery pictures
A failed visit to Antietam
Sharpsburg, MD
The plan was to take a quick tour of Antietam Battlefield, but it was just too much. I was too exhausted to walk around much after I arrived. The drive drained me. Not to mention, the weather didn’t help. It wasn’t a great day to be out, as it was cold and cloudy. However, since I made it up there, I spent about an hour there.
The Battle of Antietam (Sharpsburg), the bloodiest single-day battle of the Civil War, ended Robert E. Lee’s 1862 Maryland Campaign and pushed the fighting back into the south for the moment. On September 17th, MG George B. McClellan’s Union Army of the Potomac attacked Gen. Lee’s Confederate Army of Northern Virginia near the small town of Sharpsburg. The ensuing fight resulted in more than 23,000 casualties, including six (3 Union & 3 Confederate) generals killed or mortally wounded.
North Woods
Clara Barton Memorial
3rd Pennsylvania Reserves Monument
4th Pennsylvania Reserves Monument
Miller Cornfield, from Magilton’s Union Brigade Bivouac
MG Joseph Hooker’s First Corps made the initial Union assault on Confederate MG Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson’s men near Dunker Church in the early morning, resulting in a devastating fight in the Bloody Cornfield. Hooker’s center, consisting of BG George Meade’s Division of Pennsylvania Reserves, formed in the North Woods on the north edge of the cornfield. After the attack stalled late in the morning, Meade withdrew the Corps to the Poffenberger Farm behind the woods.
COL Albert Magilton’s Brigade, the second of Meade’s Third Division, emerged from the North Woods to engage BG John B. Hood’s Confederate Division in the Cornfield. During the fight, the brigade was shifted to support the Union left before being relieved by another division. The 3rd Pennsylvania Reserves (32nd PA Infantry), according to their monument, lost 46 men out of 200 engaged during the fight, including 12 killed and 34 wounded. The 4th Pennsylvania Reserves (33rd PA Infantry) suffered 48 casualties, according to their monument, with five killed and 43 wounded.
Clara Barton, whose memorial sits at the Poffenberger Farm, is often remembered as the ‘Angel of the Battlefield.’ She travelled to several battlefields, including Antietam, bringing medical supplies and treating wounded soldiers during and after the fighting. She would later create and manage the American Red Cross.
Bloody Lane
Sunken Road
132nd Pennsylvania Infantry Monument
In the middle of the day, the fighting resumed as MG Edwin Sumner’s Union Second Corps assaulted the Confederate center, concentrated along a well-worn farm road. The Rebels held their position through numerous assaults. In the afternoon, the Yankees successfully broke the Confederate line, but were quickly repulsed after a counter-attack by Rebel reserves. The three and a half hours of fighting resulted in about 5,600 casualties between the two forces.
The 132nd Pennsylvania Infantry participated in the initial assault on Bloody Lane and later joined the Irish Brigade as it charged in, breaking the Confederate position. The unit suffered 152 casualties in the battle, including its commanding officer, COL Richard Oakfield, who was mortally wounded.
Today’s Flickr set: battlefield photos
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