Day 3: The end of a war and beginning of a nation
Yorktown Victory Center
and
Yorktown Battlefield
Yorktown, VA
Appropriately, the final leg of our trip through Colonial America was essentially where it ended, Yorktown. The small port town along the York River hosted the final major battle of the American Revolution, effectively ending the war and giving the United States its independence. Similar to Jamestown, there are two spots to visit around the Yorktown Battlefield. There’s a privately-maintained museum and the actual battlefield, maintained by the National Park Service.
Yorktown Victory Center
Museum
The path to the main galleries was lined with panels listing the major events and several noteworthy quotes from the period leading up to the Revolutionary War creating a timeline.
The galleries were very well done. The exhibits were excellent. They were very visually pleasing, there’s just a LOT of information there. It’s almost overwhelming. We skimmed through a most of it, but had to skip parts to save time. Unfortunately, we had to be the rain coming in and still had an eight hour drive ahead.
Continental Army Encampment
In the camp, we stopped by almost every station to ask a few question. On one end, we had an opportunity to learn and play a few games the Continental Army soldiers would have passed the time with. At Camp Surgeon’s tent we had a hands-on lesson regarding the time-period’s medical instruments, with a brief explanation of their treatment philosophies. Finally, at the weapons corner, we were treated to a private musket firing demonstration.
Before leaving, we returned to the camp for an artillery firing demonstration. It was pretty cool, but the lead up was rather lengthy. Unlike most artillery demonstration I’ve seen, they really focused on involving the younger crowd, unfortunately, it bored me.
1780’s Farm
At first the farm seemed like a random addition to a Revolutionary War museum, but I eventually figured it out and it made complete sense. Considering Yorktown ended the war (and the museum is focused on that particular battle), the exhibit gives a glimpse of life in the newly-independent America. Duh…
This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*photography was not permitted inside the galleries
Colonial National Historical Park – Yorktown Battlefield
The battlefield was the site of two sieges over a course of 100 years, planning a role in two of the most significant wars to take place in this country. The first, and more notable, ended the American Revolution, while the second occurred near the beginning of the Civil War.
American Revolution
In September 1781, the American army under George Washington and French forces under Comte de Rochambeau marched from New York to join the Americans under Marquis de Lafayette holding the British Army at Yorktown. The three armies took position surrounding the trapped Brits under Lord Cornwallis, as the French Fleet, under Comte de Grasse, formed a blockade around the port. After a week of artillery bombardment and infantry attacks during the First Siege of Yorktown, Cornwallis reluctantly surrendered his army.
~British Forces~
We started in enemy territory, where the visitor center is, and walked along the British inner defense trench line. As the three Allied armies converged on Yorktown, Cornwallis pulled his forces back to this line, where they remained through the siege.
~Allied Forces~
The French Grand Battery was the largest gun placement on the first Allied siege line when it opened fire on the Brits. Within a few days after commencing their bombardment, the allied forces pushed forward and constructed a second siege line.
Civil War
During MG George B. McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign, Confederate forces reconstructed and occupied some of the former British breastworks to defend the town. The Second Siege of Yorktown took place in April between McClellan’s Army of the Potomac and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson’s Army of Northern Virginia. The month-long siege accomplished very little other than delaying McClellan’s advance north, as the Confederates quietly withdrew toward Richmond before any major action took place.
I saw very little within the field itself regarding the Civil War battle, however, a National Cemetery did sit proudly in the midst of the Revolutionary trenches and markers. Over 2,000 soldiers, including 10 Confederates, were interred, with most being unknown.
Unfortunately, our visit was cut short by a storm. It started pouring while we were exploring the second Allied siege line, so we left. It was kind of disappointing, but really, overall we were pretty lucky this weekend. The weather held up long enough for us to fit in 4 1/4 of the five sites. Not bad. I’ll just have to make another trip down to finish the battlefield tour. Again, not bad.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: battlefield pics
A failed visit to Antietam
Sharpsburg, MD
The plan was to take a quick tour of Antietam Battlefield, but it was just too much. I was too exhausted to walk around much after I arrived. The drive drained me. Not to mention, the weather didn’t help. It wasn’t a great day to be out, as it was cold and cloudy. However, since I made it up there, I spent about an hour there.
The Battle of Antietam (Sharpsburg), the bloodiest single-day battle of the Civil War, ended Robert E. Lee’s 1862 Maryland Campaign and pushed the fighting back into the south for the moment. On September 17th, MG George B. McClellan’s Union Army of the Potomac attacked Gen. Lee’s Confederate Army of Northern Virginia near the small town of Sharpsburg. The ensuing fight resulted in more than 23,000 casualties, including six (3 Union & 3 Confederate) generals killed or mortally wounded.
North Woods
MG Joseph Hooker’s First Corps made the initial Union assault on Confederate MG Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson’s men near Dunker Church in the early morning, resulting in a devastating fight in the Bloody Cornfield. Hooker’s center, consisting of BG George Meade’s Division of Pennsylvania Reserves, formed in the North Woods on the north edge of the cornfield. After the attack stalled late in the morning, Meade withdrew the Corps to the Poffenberger Farm behind the woods.
COL Albert Magilton’s Brigade, the second of Meade’s Third Division, emerged from the North Woods to engage BG John B. Hood’s Confederate Division in the Cornfield. During the fight, the brigade was shifted to support the Union left before being relieved by another division. The 3rd Pennsylvania Reserves (32nd PA Infantry), according to their monument, lost 46 men out of 200 engaged during the fight, including 12 killed and 34 wounded. The 4th Pennsylvania Reserves (33rd PA Infantry) suffered 48 casualties, according to their monument, with five killed and 43 wounded.
Clara Barton, whose memorial sits at the Poffenberger Farm, is often remembered as the ‘Angel of the Battlefield.’ She travelled to several battlefields, including Antietam, bringing medical supplies and treating wounded soldiers during and after the fighting. She would later create and manage the American Red Cross.
Bloody Lane
In the middle of the day, the fighting resumed as MG Edwin Sumner’s Union Second Corps assaulted the Confederate center, concentrated along a well-worn farm road. The Rebels held their position through numerous assaults. In the afternoon, the Yankees successfully broke the Confederate line, but were quickly repulsed after a counter-attack by Rebel reserves. The three and a half hours of fighting resulted in about 5,600 casualties between the two forces.
The 132nd Pennsylvania Infantry participated in the initial assault on Bloody Lane and later joined the Irish Brigade as it charged in, breaking the Confederate position. The unit suffered 152 casualties in the battle, including its commanding officer, COL Richard Oakfield, who was mortally wounded.
Today’s Flickr set: battlefield photos
Day 1: The Civil War and the Confederate Capital
Petersburg, VA,
Henricus Historical Park
Chester, VA
and
Richmond National Battlefield Park
Henrico County, VA
So my two-day mini-vacation weekend has begun!
To make the most of my time today, I decided to start a little south of the city at the Petersburg Battlefield, then work my way up to the city, where my lodging is. Since I have no problem getting up extremely early, I actually made it to the battlefield before it opened. Yep, at 7:00 am, I was already wandering around the grounds.
Petersburg National Battlefield
The Richmond-Petersburg Campaign, fought between June 1864 and March 1865, was the breaking point for the Confederate Army. After Cold Harbor, Union General-in-Chief Ulysses S. Grant redirected his attention from the Richmond to the significant supply center south of it, Petersburg. The railroads and roads passing through the city were the life-line for both the Confederate Capital and its Army. The nine-month ‘seige’ ended with Lee pulling his Army out, abandoning both cities. His retreat, the Appomattox Campaign, eventually led to his surrender within the month.
The Siege
The City of Petersburg was well-defended by multiple fortification lines, the outermost being the Dimmock Line, a line of batteries and trenches stretched about ten miles. The strong earthworks of the line helped the greatly out-numbered Rebel defenders fend off the Union uncoordinated initial assaults in June 1864.
The line was the target of MG Benjamin Bulter’s Army of the James during the June 9th First Battle of Petersburg. After the unsuccessful assault of Bulter’s men, Grant ordered the Army of the Potomac, under MG George Meade, to attack the city. After days of unsuccessful advances between June 15 and 18, the Federal troops dug in along a 30-mile line between Richmond and Petersburg for the duration of the nine-month siege.
In March 1865, Lee realized his army was in a tight spot, with its supply line slowly being cut. He ordered MG John Gordon to assault the Union line in hopes to push the Federals back far enough to allow his Army to escape. Gordon planned and executed an early morning surprise attack on Fort Stedman on March 25th. The fort was located relatively close to the Confederate line and only about a mile in front of a Union supple depot along the US Military Railroad. The Rebel assault was successful at first, as the force easily overran the fort and took more than 1,000 POW’s, however it faltered as the men advanced toward the supply depot. The Federal infantry, with artillery support, restored their line and reoccupied the fort.
Reminiscent of a previous hike through Manassas Battlefield, ended up wandering around lost in the battlefield’s wooded area. It was not fun at ALL!!! Honestly, I’m not sure where I went wrong. I obviously made a wrong turn somewhere (at least I think). I thought I was correctly following the arrows and markers, but after a long stretch of not seeing anything, I decided I had to abort the hike. I don’t know if that was my mistake. Perhaps I was steps away from the tree line and the end of the trail, but it didn’t seem like it. Scared that I would get too far from what I knew was a path, I made an about-face and headed back.
I wandered around trying to retrace my steps, but it didn’t seem to be helping. I was surrounded by thick trees and any path that may have been there was covered with fallen leaves. I had nothing. To be honest, I was a little worried. I wasn’t sure how I was going to get myself out of this one. How would anyone be able to find me in the middle of the woods? But, surprisingly, despite not actually realizing it, I managed to find my way back to where I started and emerged unscathed. The little unintended adventure did eat up some time and energy, but I pressed on.
Battle of the Crater
One of the most well-known engagements of the siege was the Battle of the Cater. After the opening battles at Petersburg, MG Ambrose Burnside’s Union IX Corps was position near the Confederate First Corps’ line. In an attempt to break through the Rebel line, a mine was dug over 500 feet, reaching a Confederate fort. Twenty-feet below the surface, more than 8,000-lbs of gunpowder was detonated on July 30th, a month after the project began.
The explosion killed a significant number of Confederate soldiers and opened a large gap in their line, however, the Federals squandered the opportunity. The Union colored unit trained to make the advance was pulled, due to political concerns, and those ordered to make the assault in their place mistakenly marched into the crater. The Yankees were trapped in the pit, unable to climb out, as Confederates lined the brim. Burnside, despite the terrible scene, ordered reinforcement into the crater, resulting in an absolute slaughter. The Union suffered more than twice as many casualties as the Rebels.
As a little side note, the engagement is depicted at the beginning of the 2003 film Cold Mountain, after which Jude Law’s character, disillusioned about the war, begins his journey home to Nicole Kidman.
City Point
Grant set up his headquarters during the Campaign about eight-miles behind the Union line in City Point on the Appomattox Plantation. The 2,300 acre property, owned by the Eppes family, sat at the confluence of the James and Appomattox River. The 100-year old Manor was abandoned by the family before the Union troops arrived.
This morning’s Flickr set: battlefield photos
Now, my plan was to go straight back to Richmond after leaving Hopewell, Petersburg’s City Point Unit, however, that changed. On my way in I noticed signs for the Henricus Historical Park, which peaked my interest. I certainly hadn’t heard of the place, but it was a ‘historical park.’ It seemed like it was located in the general direction of Richmond, so ‘on my way.’
Henricus Settlement
It was kind of neat. Apparently, Henricus was the Virginia colony’s second settlement, established in fall 1611 by Sir Thomas Dale. Apparently, it was here that Pocahontas lived for a period, converted to Christianity, was baptized Rebecca, and met and married John Rolfe. Who knew? The settlement was effective destroyed in a Native American uprising in 1622. The park had replicas of features within the local Native American villages, the 1611 fort, and a successful tobacco plantation.
Mid-day’s Flickr set: park pics
After my little side trip back to the beginnings of this country, I returned to my original course and tried to fit in as many of the Richmond National Battlefield sites south of the city as I could.
Richmond Battlefields
The National Park Service maintains various separate sites around the city from different periods of the war, from start to finish. The sites include several national cemeteries, forts along the Confederate Capital defense line, battlefields from the 1862 Seven Days Battles and the 1864 Overland and Richmond-Petersburg Campaigns. It certainly can’t be walked. I also don’t think it can be adequately visited in one day. I bet the drive time between the sites alone is a couple of hours. A park brochure is available with a pre-routed auto-tour, so I’m sure it’s possible, but I still think it would be tough to do.
City Defenses
The Confederate Capital was the target of a number of Union campaigns throughout the war, obviously. Thus, it was also heavily defended by a line of forts and artillery pits, some of the large earthworks still remain visible along the countryside.
Fort Darling was a heavily armed position, with eight large guns, about seven miles down the James River on Drewery’s Bluff. After the fall of Yorktown during McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign, five boats, including three ironclads, were ordered up river to test the Richmond defenses along the waterway. The detachment, under Cmdr John Rodgers, was devastated by the strong Confederate position. The Rebels inflicted heavy damage on the Union flagship, USS Galeno, and pushed the Federals back down river.
According to a marker placed along the bluff, Cpl John F. Mackie, the first US Marine to have such an honor, was awarded the Medal of Honor for his actions during the May 15th battle. He continued to fire his musket at the Confederate gun pits from aboard the Galeno under heavy fire himself, until he was ordered to man one of the vessel’s weapons, which he did for the remainder of the fight.
Fort Harrison was considered to be one of the strongest fortifications along the Confederate defensive line of the war, until it was left stripped during the 1864 Richmond-Petersburg Campaign. In an attempt to distract Lee from his planned actions south of Petersburg, Grant ordered a coordinated assault on Chaffin’s Farm and New Market Heights near Richmond and the fort was easily overcome on September 29th by BG George Stannard’s division. The Union assault, however, bogged down as they continued their march to Chaffin’s Bluff due to confusion and the loss of unit commanders. The following day, Lee ordered a counterattack by newly arrived reinforcements to retake the position, however the assault was easily repulsed. The fort remained in Union hands for the duration of the campaign and was renamed Fort Burnham, after BG Hiram Burnham, who was killed during the battle.
Fort Brady was actually a Union-built position along the James River. It was constructed to keep the Confederate Navy at bay and anchor their line on the river, after the late September 1864 actions.
During my tour of forts, my camera filled up, so I made a pit stop at my hotel. The bonus of staying there!! Yayee. I checked in, moved my stuff to my room, emptied my memory card, found directions for the rest of the evening’s spots. All while trying not to waste too much precious daylight.
Malvern Hill Battlefield
The July 1st Battle of Malvern Hill/Poindexter Farm was the sixth and final engagement of Lee’s Seven Days Battles, during McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign. Almost the entire Union Army of the Potomac occupied the hill, under the command of BG Fitz John Porter, when Lee launched a direct assault on the heavily defended position.
Before the Confederate artillery could begin their pre-assault bombardment, Union Chief-of-Artillery MG Col. Henry Hunt beat them to the punch, launching one of the most impressive displays of the war. The Union artillery placed on Malvern Hill dominated their counterparts, positioned about 2,000-yds north near Poindexter Farm. Despite the setback, Lee ordered his disorganized forces forward, with the furthest point reached was within 200-yds of the Union line and his army suffered heavy casualties trying.
Late afternoon’s Flickr set: fort/battlefield pics
Wow, so yeah, it’s been a LONG day. I’d say I fit in enough for one day and I’m looking forward to tomorrow, but for now, I need to rest. I want to walk around the city for a bit, and then stop at the remaining battlefields in the area on the way home. Think I can do it?
A second shot at Manassas
Manassas, VA
Yes, I decided to try hiking around Manassas Battlefield again. I haven’t forgotten my first attempt yet, but I needed to wipe the slate clean. Obviously, the first time around I wasn’t paying enough attention to my trail, but I’m certainly not going to allow that to forever taint the park. So, I gave it another shot.
The battlefield is the site of two battles during the Civil War, including the very first clash between the North and South armies. Civilian spectators lined the July 1861 field to watch the two sides duke it out, in what was supposed to be an easy victory for the Union. As would be expected, the gruesome events of the day were a rude awaking for the country. The Confederates pulled out a victory, squashing the idea the war would be quickly won by the Yankees.
About a year later, Union MG John Pope’s Army of Virginia clashed with Gen Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia in late August. Pope’s army unsuccessfully attacked MG Stonewall Jackson’s Confederate Left Wing positioned on the field, with MG James Longstreet’s Right Wing arriving as reinforcements.
Second Manassas Battlefield
August 29th, 1862 Battlefield
On the second day of battle, Pope formed his army in the fields along Dogan Ridge in preparation for an attack on Jackson’s line a half mile west, while Jackson positioned his men along an unfinished railroad grade. The Union assaults were disorganized and ultimately unsuccessful. The few breaks in the Confederate line were quickly restored and Longstreet reached the battlefield to reinforce his Confederate brethren.
August 30th, 1862 Battlefield
Pope misinterpreted Rebel movement as a retreat, ordering his troops in pursuit, however, the Confederates remained in place, leaving the uncoordinated assaults once again unsuccessful. Fitz-John Porter’s Corps assaulted William Starke’s Confederate division at the unfinished railroad’s deep cut, resulting in high Union casualties. Porter was later court-martialed for actions during the battle. While the northern troops were focused on their assault, Longstreet ordered an attack on the Union left.
Forced to withdraw by Longstreet’s advance, the Federals made several stands in order to delay the Rebels. The 5th and 10th New York Regiments suffered high casualties as they made a futile attempt to hold their ground. On Chinn Ridge and near the Chinn House, Union forces fought hard to delay the Confederate assault long enough for Pope to establish a defensive line to the rear. The Federate line at Henry Hill was the Union’s last stand and held up through the ensuing assault, although severely battered. That night, Pope withdrew his army.
Misc
Near the Henry House sits a brick memorial, called the Fallen Patriots Monument, dedicated to the soldiers killed during the First Manassas. The Groveton Confederate Cemetery was established two years after the Civil War came to an end by local citizens. About 260 Confederate soldiers were interred, with only two being known.
So, as you can see… it was a success. I didn’t get lost and completed the trail with no problems. There was a moment though when I reached a part of the trail, near Deep Cut, that was closed and it worried me. The detour did not seem clear to me. It basically pointed down a road, which I followed but began to question whether I’d ever find the trail again. Of course, some of my impatience about seeing another sign was my paranoia about getting lost again. Fortunately, it all worked out just fine!
Today’s Flickr set: battlefield pics
Around Gettysburg, McPherson’s Ridge to Culp’s Hill
Gettysburg, PA
So, today it was back to one of the country’s most well-known Civil War battlefields, Gettysburg. My objectives were to tour McPherson’s Ridge (and the rest of the July 1st battlefield) and visit the East Cavalry Battlefield a few miles east of town.
The Gettysburg and the surrounding farm lands were the setting for one of the war’s most significant engagements of the war. The July 1863 three-day battle, between MG George Meade’s Union Army of the Potomac and Gen. Robert E. Lee’s Confederate Army of Northern Virginia, not only the ended the Rebel march north but was also a turning point in the war.
Day One – July 1
The first day of fighting ended with the Confederates “winning the day,” but the Union held the better defensive ground. Lee’s army was able to push the Yankees back through town, but failed to capitalize on their success. The Confederates did not attack the battered Federals holding Cemetery Hill, allowing them to maintain the high ground.
Gettysburg Plain
In the afternoon, Union MG Oliver O. Howard’s Eleventh Army Corps formed a line across the plain northwest of town. BG Alexander Schimmelfennig’s division stretched across the open field, where they were hit hard by Rebel artillery, connecting with BG Francis Barlow’s division to the north.
The 74th and 75th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry Regiments fought with Schimmelfennig’s Third Division on the plain. After retreating through town, both regiments held positions near the cemetery until the close of the battle. The 74th Pennsylvania lost a total of 102 men, including eight killed, 36 wounded and 58 captured or wounded, according to the monument. The 75th Penna. monument lists 111 casualties, with 19 killed, 94 wounded and 3 captured or missing. Both regiments lost their commanding officers during on the first day of battle. The 74th lost two CO’s, as their colonel was wounded and their lieutenant colonel was captured, leaving the regiment to the third in commanded. The 75th’s colonel was mortally wounded on July 1st.
Barlow’s Knoll
Barlow ordered his First Division to take position on a portion of high ground north of town, creating a small salient in the XI Corps line. The vulnerable position was exploited by BG Jubal Early’s Confederate Division of MG Richard Ewell’s Second Corps. BG John B. Gordon’s brigade assaulted the division’s front, with BG Henry Hays and COL Isaac Avery’s brigades attacking on the flanks. Barlow’s men held out as long as possible before retreating through town to Cemetery Hill.
Barlow was wounded while rallying his overwhelmed troops and left for dead. He was captured and treated by Confederate soldiers. He returned to the Army of the Potomac the following spring and took command of a division in MG Winfield S. Hancock’s Second Corps during Grant’s 1864 Overland Campaign.
Day Two – July 2
The second day of Gettysburg was characterized by two Confederate assaults on the Union line. LTG James Longstreet orchestrated the main assault on the Union left in the Peach Orchard and Wheatfield, while Ewell’s Second Corps engaged the Union right at Culp’s Hill.
Spangler’s Spring
The Twelfth Corps’ First Division held the line from Spangler’s Spring through McAllister Woods on the Union right. The division moved in support of the Union left during the day with the rest of MG Henry Slocum’s Twelfth Army Corps, but returned in the evening.
Culp’s Hill
Concerned about his left, under attack by Longstreet’s First Corps, Meade pulled a majority of Slocum’s XII Corps away from Culp’s Hill in support of his troops in the Wheatfield. The move left only BG George Greene’s Third Brigade of the Second Division to defend the position against MG Edward Johnson’s Confederate Division. With a few reinforcements from the nearby battered First and Eleventh Corps, the well-entrenched Federals were able to hold their ground for most of the day. Eventually being outflanked by BG George Steuart’s Brigade, Green’s men were forced back to new trenches for the night. The next morning, with the rest of the Corps returning, the Confederates were pushed off the hill.
The 1st Maryland, Eastern Shore Infantry Regiment, part of the First Division, engaged their friends and neighbors in the Confederate 1st Maryland Infantry Regiment on the hill during the July 3rd fighting. The Union Marylanders helped regain the position, while suffering 25 causalities, including five killed.
Cemetery Hill
East Cemetery Hill also saw action along the Union right as Early’s Division pushed through the Union line along Wainwright Road at the base of the hill. The Confederates, facing the remains of Barlow’s former division under the command of BG Adelbert Ames, reached the artillery batteries on top of the hill before Union reinforcements from Hancock’s Second Corps arrived. The Union remained in control of the hill, as the Rebels were pushed back, but both sides suffered heavy losses in the fight.
Howard’s Army of the Potomac Eleventh Corps headquarters was positioned on the hill during the battle. Howard briefly took command of the Union ‘Left Wing’ during the first day after MG John F. Reynolds was killed, before Hancock arrived with orders to take command of the field. After a brief protest, Howard stepped aside and had little participation in the remainder of the battle, as his Corps was devastated during the first day.
Benner’s Hill
Confederate artillery along Brenner’s Hill bombarded the Union left, with little impact, in the late afternoon.
Day Three – July 3
The main action during Gettysburg’s third day was the infantry assault by Longstreet on the Union Center positioned along Cemetery Ridge. In addition, on the Union right, infantry on Culp’s Hill engaged the Confederates positioned on the hill and regained the ground lost the previous day. Two cavalry battles also took place on the fringes of the main assault.
East Cavalry Battlefield
In support of Longstreet’s infantry assault on the Union center, Confederate MG JEB Stuart led his Cavalry Corps in an attempt to reach the rear of the Yankee line. The Confederate horsemen, however, were thwarted by Union cavalry under BG David Gregg and George Custer three miles east of town.
Both the 1st Maryland and 1st New Jersey Cavalry Regiments fought with Gregg’s Second Division in East Cavalry Battlefield on July 3rd. According to the monument, the 1st Maryland lost two wounded and one missing and the 1st New Jersey lost three to wounds in the fight.
Overall, I’d say it was a successful trip to Gettysburg. I covered a lot of ground, learned a lot and had fun. What more could I ask for??
Today’s Flickr set: battlefield photos





























































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