Finding My Way

Day 1: In the beginning…

Friday, July 31, 2009
America’s Historic Triangle

Jamestown Settlement
and
Historic Jamestowne
Jamestown, VA

As a mini-vacation before the semester begins, a friend and I took a three-day weekend trip to the Williamsburg, VA area. Our first day was spent at Jamestown, the site of the first permanent English settlement in America.

Jamestown Settlement

The large, privately-maintained museum, run in conjunction with the Yorktown Victory Center, is focused on telling Jamestown’s story. It’s located within miles of the actual settlement site.

Powhatan Indian Village

Native American Huts
Reed-covered huts

The recreated Indian Village consisted of several reed-covered huts of varying sizes. Each was set up a little differently inside. Some were very spacious and very comfortable, while others seemed rather cramped. The beds were made with animal furs and the walls lined with drying food, fur, reed-baskets and such.

Colony Pier

Aboard the Godspeed
Aboard the Godspeed, with the Susan Constant to the right

Cannon Firing Demo
Canon firing aboard the Susan Constant

Docked in the pier are replicas of the three ships aboard which the first colonists traveled to Jamestown, Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery. The trio carried a combined one hundred and five individuals across the Atlantic Ocean during the initial four-month journey from England to Virginia in 1607.

On a funny side note, while we were innocently touring the Susan Constant, one of the ship’s crew took a liking to my friend. Her body language and facial expressions screamed ‘leave-me-the-hell-alone,’ but that didn’t deter this guy. He showed us two of the ship’s cannons, letting her go through the motions of loading one and aim another. The good sport she is, she went along with it, and the good friend I am, I laughed the entire time.

We waited around the river for a live cannon firing demonstration aboard the Susan Constant. We were told (by my friend’s admirer) the best picture angle was on another ship, so we watched on the Godspeed.

James Fort

Fort James
James Fort

The final stop was a living recreation of the 1610-14 James Fort, which housed the original settlers in the area. They had a blacksmith working, a woman making bread, several individuals discussing various aspects of early colonial life. All very interesting.

Galleries

Jamestown Galleries
Jamestown Galleries

The galleries were very nice. It was impressive. The exhibits were definitely top-notch. It started with an exhibit about the Virginia land, moved to the three different people and cultures, the Powhatan Indians, African slaves and English settlers, who would eventually met at Jamestown, and then the story of the settlement.

You could definitely spend an entire afternoon, if not much more, wandering through the museum. There’s a LOT of information and a LOT to see. My friend and I both agreed our brains began to hurt halfway through. Wow, it was rather overwhelming. We skimmed through the last ‘year’ in the museum and skipped the special exhibit because we were overloaded and ready for lunch.

This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*Note: Photography was not allowed within the museum galleries, so it’s just of the outdoor exhibits.

Colonial National Historical Park – Historic Jamestowne

Moving onto the actual site of the settlement, maintained by the National Parks Service.

Old Towne

“Old Towne” is the site of the 1607 James Fort. The triangular fort was built by the original settlers to protect their fledgling colony.

Jamestown Memorial Church
Jamestown Memorial Church

John Smith & the James River
Captain John Smith Statue overlooking the James River

James Fort Well
Excavating the first original well within the James Fort

The Memorial Church tower was built in 1690, making it the oldest surviving structure at the site, while the rest of the church was added in 1907. The remaining cobblestone foundation of the original 1639 church is displayed through glass panels on the inside.

Captain Smith is probably one of the most famous early settlers. He was captured by the Powhatan Indians, lived with the tribe and eventually released. He felt he was saved in some respects by the chief’s young daughter, Pocahontas. Disney even made a movie about his story. He later explored part of the Chesapeake Bay region and was elected head of the settlement, when it was struggling to survive. Under his leadership, the settlement stabilized and began to thrive.

The Jamestown Rediscovery Team of archeologists has two digs currently in progress within the presumed original site of James Fort. In the largest, they are excavating a well, which has apparently yielded a number of artifacts already. The second is near the church, where they are looking for evidence of a small cottage.

New Towne

In the 1620’s, the colonists began to expand beyond the walls of the fort creating their permanent settlement in the “New Towne” area.

New Towne ruins
Merchant Row Ruins

The Ambler House
The remains of the Ambler House, a 1750’s Georgian-style mansion

Jamestown served as Virginia’s capital until the end of the 1690’s, making it a relatively bustling town. There were a variety of homes, taverns and shops built in this area to support the activities of the state government. The area now includes remaining foundations of large and small houses, as well as rowhouses. Interpretive boards are scattered along the walkway to help put it all in context.

After the capital was moved to Williamsburg, the island was eventually split into a couple of plantations, including one owed by the Ambler family. The remains of the family’s mansion still stand amongst the former town’s ruins.

Jamestown Island Drive

Cash Crop board*
“The Gooden Weed”

Island Drive*
View from the auto-tour

The Island Drive is a large looped road (3-5 miles) around the remaining portion of the park. It has a series of pull-offs with signs containing a painted scene and information about some piece of settlement life, such as growing tobacco or the failed venture of harvesting silk. Again, the area was gorgeous. There were several bridges over marsh areas which provided amazing views. The rest of the drive was through wooded areas.

Glasshouse

As you enter the sight, one of the first attractions is the settlement’s glassblower. The foundations of the settlement’s original glasshouse furnaces are housed in a small exhibit hut. In addition, a working studio with live demonstrations and a shop is set up.

Glassblower*
Glassblower

The glassblower makes a different item each hour, which is then sold in the gift shop and priced base on the number that can be made within an hour. While I was there, he was making a small, clover-lipped bottle. There were some pretty amazing pieces, including this year’s collector’s piece, an extremely intricate glass horn that cost well over $100.00.

It seemed like a storm was brewing almost the entire afternoon, but fortunately, held up until we finished at the glasshouse. However, just as we walked to the car, the rain came pouring down. Talk about perfect timing.

This afternoon’s Flickr set: site photos

A hot spot in history

Saturday, Nov. 3, 2007
Harpers Ferry National Historical Park
Jefferson County, WV

I planned to ‘stay close to home’ today, but at the last minute ventured a tad further than expected. Okay, okay, not THAT far. Instead of roaming around the Baltimore-Washington area, I headed west. I’ve had my sights set on Harpers Ferry for a while.

The small West Virginia town is full of history. It’s used to be an industrial rock-star, a huge transportation hub and a central point in the lead up to and a battle during the Civil War.

Lower Town

Shenandoah Street
Shenandoah Street

John Brown's Fort
John Brown’s Fort

The small section of restored buildings, turned exhibits, seems to the center point of the Historical Park.

In perhaps the town’s most infamous events, abolitionist John Brown lead 21 men in a raid on the US Arsenal and Armory in Harpers Ferry, in order to capture weapons and ammunition for his planned slave up-rising. LTC Robert E. Lee was sent with a unit of US Marines to settle the rebellion. After 36-hours, the Marines captured Brown, and his surviving followers, in the Armory’s enginehouse, now referred to as his fort.

Confectionery & Civil War Museum
Confectionary & Civil War Museum

Storer College
Storer College

The Civil War also left its mark on the town. After Virginia’s official secession in April 1861, the Arsenal and Amory, the center of the town’s industrial prominence, was burned by US Troops to prevent its use by the Confederates. The transportation hub, sitting along the B&O Railroad, changed hands eight times during the war.

After the war, New England Freewill Baptist Missionaries purchased several of the vacant Armory buildings and established the Storer College in 1867. The college’s primary mission was to educate former slaves, but its doors remained opened to all students. The college was closed shortly after schools were desegregated in 1954.

Camp Hill

St Peter's Church
Saint Peter’s Church

Jefferson Rock
Jefferson Rock

A short hike up from Lower Town, sits Jefferson Rock. It’s named after our second President, Thomas Jefferson, who stood on it taking in the beautiful view it provided of the Potomac River flowing through the valley.

Virginius Island

Cotton Factory/Flour Mill
Cotton Factory/Flour Mill foundation

While the large United States Arsenal and Armory was the center of the town’s industrial scene, employing more than 400 people and leading the way in revolutionizing rifle manufacturing, a group of private mills was built up on the Virginius Island along the Potomac. The remains of the mills, including the cotton, flour, and water-powered pulp mills, are still there. A short trail winding its way through the site, telling the town’s industrial story.

Maryland Heights

The Point - Potomac & Shenandoah Rivers
The Point

Railroad Passage
Railroad Passage

Several significant means of transportation pass through the town, including the Baltimore & Ohio and Winchester & Potomac Railroads and the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. In addition, the town sits at the conflux of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.

I considered hiking up Maryland Heights. I hear the view from the top is gorgeous, but I opted not to this trip. Instead, I wanted to catch the day’s live artillery demonstration elsewhere in the Park.

Bolivar Heights

Union Skirmish Line*
Union Skirmish Line

Bolivar Heights

During Lee’s 1862 Maryland Campaign of the Civil War, he split his Army of Northern Virginia and sent Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson and his troops to capture and secure Harpers Ferry, an important supply station for the Confederates. The town was poorly defended and Jackson met little resistance on September 12th as he positioned his men on Maryland and Loudoun Heights in preparation for taking Harpers Ferry. The Union force commander felt his thin line on Bolivar Heights could adequately defend the position, however the Federals quickly surrendered as the Rebels attacked. Over 12,000 Union troops were taken prisoner in the loop-sided victory, before Jackson had to march his men to Antietam to aide Lee.

Artillery Demonstration

Confederate Artillery Unit
Baltimore Battery Reenactors

A Baltimore Confederate Artillery Unit put on a live Civil War artillery demostration today. I wasn’t aware of the activity prior to arriving, but since I was there, I didn’t want to miss it. The reenactors discussed the process of loading and firing the two pieces, as well as a few tid-bits about life as an Artilleryman, then fired each gun a couple of times. It was definitely an interesting half-hour, but the guns were extremely loud! The “bangs” made my heart skip a beat and it’s still trying to recover, but to be fair, they did warn us.

Today’s Flickr set: area photos

A place of sacrifice and perseverance.

Saturday, Oct. 6, 2007
Valley Forge National Historical Park
Valley Forge, PA

I’m not sure why I decided to drive up to Valley Forge today. It just felt like the thing to do. It’s about 18 miles northwest of Philadelphia, which seemed reasonable. I have yet to visit a Revolutionary War site and wanted to do something new.

In 1777-78, the George Washington moved his ragged Continental Army to Valley Forge for the winter. The six-month encampment has come to symbolize American sacrifice and perseverance. The officers and men struggled through the harsh weather, fighting off disease and training hard, to reemerge as a legitimate fighting force.

Park Grounds

Welcome Center
Welcome Center

Morning Mist
Morning Mist

Joseph Plumb Martin Trail
Joseph Plumb Martian Trail

Mount Joy
Mount Joy

The park was well maintained. The welcome center exhibits were very well done and informative. There are a variety of paved and dirt trails winding through the park, which was surprisingly busy. There were just a lot of people out, it was actually kind of nice. There were walkers, joggers and cyclists all over the place. For whatever reason, it always makes me smile to see people taking advantage of an opportunity to be active. Weird, I know.

Continental Army’s encampment

New Hampshire Soldiers' Huts
The “log city” on the site of Muhlenburg’s Brigade encampment

Washington's Headquarters & Potts' Barn
George Washington’s Headquarters

Grand Parade
Grand Parade

Reconstructed Redoubt
Reconstructed Redoubt

The army suffered through the six-month encampment in extreme winter conditions with limited food and inadequate clothing. The vulnerable soldiers were ravaged by disease, with more than 2,000 deaths over that winter. However, it was also as a turning point for the American Army in terms of their combat readiness. The time was used to properly train the soldiers, under the supervision of an experienced Prussian military officer, leaving the valley as a formidable fighting force.

Memorials

National Memorial Arch
National Memorial Arch

MG Friedrich von Steuben
MG Friedrich von Steuben memorial

Washington Memorial Chapel
Washington Memorial Chapel

Friedrich von Steuben was a Prussian army officer who joined the Continental Army at Valley Forge. Having had military experience, he created the fledging Army’s drill manual, laying out his training program implemented during the encampment. He was eventually appointed Inspector General of the Army. Under his tutelage, the soldiers became a more effective army, ready to take on the British.

Overall, it was a nice trip. I wouldn’t mind going back and would definitely recommend it.

Today’s Flickr set: park photos

Back to the beginning of our Democracy

Sunday, July 1, 2007
Independence National Historical Park
Philadelphia, PA

Adding even more variety to my walks, today I drove up to the Historic District of Philly. The area was bustling with activity in preparation for this week’s Fourth of July celebrations. Once again, my brain didn’t make the connection between the upcoming holiday and the historical significance of my destination choice. I mean, duh, it’s nearing Independence Day and I chose to go to where the Declaration was actually signed hundreds of years ago? Umm… yeah, it’s going to be busy.

Historic District

City Tavern and US Custom House
City Tavern and US Custom House

Independence Historical Park

The Liberty Bell
Liberty Bell

Independence Hall
Independence Hall

National Constitution Center
National Constitution Center

The historical park mainly consists of the Visitor Center, the Liberty Bell House, the original Pennsylvania government buildings, and the large National Constitution Center. The Liberty Bell is housed in a simple building, with a few exhibits regarding its history and significance. It has a security station that visitors must pass through. Fortunately, there wasn’t a long line, so I didn’t have to wait, but I imagine later in the day it could really slow things down.

Independence Square, with its series of three historical halls, is across the street from the bell. Congress Hall housed the US Congress between 1790 and 1800. The centerpiece, Independence Hall, formerly the Pennsylvania State House, is where the Declaration of Independence and the United States Constitution were written. Finally, the Old City Hall held the US Supreme Court between 1791 and 1800. The beginnings of our Democratic government were right there.

I decided not to tour Independence Hall, due to limited time. It requires a free-timed ticket and the line was already too long. I wasn’t in the mood to wait around. I had places to go and things to see. I was content to admire it from across the street.

I wanted to visit the National Constitution Center , however I didn’t get the chance. It just wasn’t open while I was in the vicinity. I’ve heard it’s very interesting. In fact, my waitress at lunch even recommended it later in the day. The problem was by the time it did open I was across town and too tired to make my way back. It’s one of the inconvenient parts about touring areas on a Sunday (and in the morning). I’ll have to save it for another trip.

Society Hill

Delancey St, Society Hill

I finished my walk strolling through the historic Society Hill neighborhood. I enjoy walking through such quiet residential areas. I wouldn’t mind eventually buying an old house in a historic district with a cobble-stone street. I know it would probably take a lot of work and money to renovate, but it could be an interesting project. Of course, it also depends on where I settle down, whether that’s even possible.

Washington Square District

Washington Square
American Revolution Tomb of the Unknown

I visited two of the city’s original squares, including Washington Square. It was a nice quiet open space, with plenty of seating and trees for shade. It seemed like a great place to plop down to read for a while, not that I needed such a break. The Revolutionary War Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, including an eternal flame and fountain, is located in the center of the park.

The second was Franklin Square, which was very busy. It was smaller and contained a playground and other kids’ attractions, making it a popular spot for families. Today there was a sand-sculpture exhibit throughout the space. It was kind of neat. The city’s Fire and Law Enforcement Personnel Memorial sits quietly on the edge of the square.

As a side note, the Declaration House, where Thomas Jefferson rented a room and drafted the Declaration of Independence, sits in-between the two.

Penn’s Landing

Across the Delaware
Delaware River, view of New Jersey from Penn’s Landing

The final piece to my trip was a walk through Penn’s Landing along the Delaware River. The pier is a hot spot for festivals and concerts. It also has a few maritime museums, one large building and a few ships.

I had a great day, but I was certainly exhausted by the time I reached my car. Hopefully I’ll make my way back to Philly at some point, but I feel good about what I accomplished while there today.

Today’s Flickr set: city photos

One of the things about traveling solo is that it makes me a perfect target for strangers to talk to. Not that I mind, it’s a great way to find out more about the area and just interesting tid-bits of info. I’ve met some neat and/or friendly people so far during my outings, and today was no different. My waitress at lunch took note of me and actually stood around chatting for a while. She recommended a few must-see attractions, most of which I had already stopped by and told me about the various large festivals held at Penn’s Landing. Apparently, it’s a pretty happening place, however nothing was going on today, just the way I’d prefer it.

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