A glimpse of War in the Valley
New Market Battlefield State Historical Park & Hall of Valor Civil War Museum
New Market, VA
and
Cedar Creek and Belle Grove National Historical Park
b/w Middletown & Strasburg, VA
Today I decided to take a trip into my past. My father’s family lived in the Shenandoah Valley throughout my childhood, so I spent a lot of time in the area. Not to mention, it’s were my parents lived during the first years of marriage and where I was actually born. Anyway, I haven’t been back in years, so I decided to drive down, hitting a couple of Civil War battlefields along the way.
New Market Battlefield
The Battle of New Market occurred in May during the Valley Campaigns of 1864. MG John Breckinridge’s Confederate troops, including the Virginia Military Institute’s (VMI) Corps of Cadets, attacked Union MG Franz Sigel’s army outside of the small town. The cadets were intended to remain in reserve, however ordered to the front to reinforce the weakened Confederate center. Their brave service is a continued point of pride for the institute, with several traditions surrounding the events of that day.
Hall of Valor
New Market Cadet gravestones & VMI Hall of Valor Museum
A semi-circle of six gravestones sits outside of the battlefield’s visitor center/museum. The stones are for six of the ten cadets lost in the battle, including five killed in action and one who died within days. The missing four died of complications due to their wounds over a course of months. The memorials were originally placed on VMI’s campus, but were later replaced by new memorial stones, with the additional four.
The museum is dedicated to the battle, particularly the cadets involved, and the war in general. The exhibits were nice. They were very eye-catching. The upper level of “The Virginia Room” is lined with sections summarizing each year of the Civil War, with the lower level displaying artifacts from the battle and war in general.
Field of Honor
19th Century Bushlong Farm
Field of Lost Shoes
von Kleiser’s Union battery position
The Bushlong family’s farm was the center of the battle line, with its fields baring witness to the fierce fighting. The house, in which the family hid in the basement, was used as a Confederate field hospital and is currently set up with displays showing the lifestyle of the time.
The wheat field north of the Bushlong’s orchard, which came to be known as the Field of Lost Shoes, was the main Confederate attack field during the battle. The Corps of Cadets, holding the Confederate center, charged out of the orchard across the fence, rushing toward the Union line.
The Union artillery, sitting across the field from the Confederate position, was abandoned after its infantry support retreated and captured by Rebel forces. The entire Yankee line in the wheat field area was assaulted and driven from the field.
Misc
Shenandoah Valley scenic overlook
While walking back from the Field of Lost Shoes, there was a gorgeous scenic overlook into the Valley. Definitely worth a stop.
This morning’s Flickr set: New Market pics
The Battle of Cedar Creek, the final of the Valley Campaigns of 1864, took place in mid-October. In the morning, Confederate MG Jubal Early’s Third Corps surprised MG Philip Sheridan’s Union Army of the Shenandoah, catching the Yankees off guard and pushing two Corps back. Eventually, the Union VIII Corps was able to organize an adequate defense, draining the Rebels of their momentum. After a brief cease-fire, the Union army counter-attacked and crushed their Confederate opponents.
The battlefield is a mixture of National Park, foundation-owned and privately-owned property. Apparently, most of it belongs to the Cedar Creek Battlefield and Belle Grove Plantation Foundations, preservation foundations working to accumulate the remainder of the land. Very little of the battlefield is currently maintained by the National Park Service.
Anyway, because of this, there isn’t an official tour route for the park. At the battlefield visitor center this book was recommended to me as a guide for an adequate, organized tour. It’s extremely interesting, as it gives a lot more information about the area, but I need more time to figure out the suggested trail. I’m going to read through the book, then go back. However, since I was there, I stopped at two main pieces of the battlefield for a preview.
Belle Grove Manor
Plantation fields & Cedar Creek Battlefield
The Belle Grove estate was home to Maj. Isaac Hite and his wife Nelly Conway Madison, James Madison’s sister. During the battle, the property was front and center for much of the fighting. The mansion itself was used as Sheridan’s headquarters.
Currently, the house is open for tours, although, I chose to skip it due to time restraints. The grounds include several outbuildings, a barn, small garden and slave cemetery. The estate is gorgeous.
Union Trench line
Union XIX Corps trench section
A half-mile trail follows a section of MG William Emory’s Eleventh Corps trench line. The trail begins at an easy to miss gravel road off of Route 11, but once you find it, for the most part well-marked as it cuts through the thick woods. The trenches are relatively well preserved.
I’ve been to several battlefields with earthworks remaining, but have yet to find a way to effectively photograph them. Because the images are flat, it’s often hard to see the faint overgrown trenches. Oh well, I know what I’m looking at and maybe one day I’ll figure something better out.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: Cedar Creek pics
Day 3: The end of a war and beginning of a nation
Yorktown Victory Center
and
Yorktown Battlefield
Yorktown, VA
Appropriately, the final leg of our trip through Colonial America was essentially where it ended, Yorktown. The small port town along the York River hosted the final major battle of the American Revolution, effectively ending the war and giving the United States its independence. Similar to Jamestown, there are two spots to visit around the Yorktown Battlefield. There’s a privately-maintained museum and the actual battlefield, maintained by the National Park Service.
Yorktown Victory Center
Museum
“Road to Revolution” Timeline
Galleries
The path to the main galleries was lined with panels listing the major events and several noteworthy quotes from the period leading up to the Revolutionary War creating a timeline.
The galleries were very well done. The exhibits were excellent. They were very visually pleasing, there’s just a LOT of information there. It’s almost overwhelming. We skimmed through a most of it, but had to skip parts to save time. Unfortunately, we had to be the rain coming in and still had an eight hour drive ahead.
Continental Army Encampment
Officer’s Tent
A tool to drill into a skull (how appropriate)
Musket Firing Demonstration
In the camp, we stopped by almost every station to ask a few question. On one end, we had an opportunity to learn and play a few games the Continental Army soldiers would have passed the time with. At Camp Surgeon’s tent we had a hands-on lesson regarding the time-period’s medical instruments, with a brief explanation of their treatment philosophies. Finally, at the weapons corner, we were treated to a private musket firing demonstration.
Cannon Firing Demonstration
Before leaving, we returned to the camp for an artillery firing demonstration. It was pretty cool, but the lead up was rather lengthy. Unlike most artillery demonstration I’ve seen, they really focused on involving the younger crowd, unfortunately, it bored me.
1780’s Farm
Farm Kitchen
At first the farm seemed like a random addition to a Revolutionary War museum, but I eventually figured it out and it made complete sense. Considering Yorktown ended the war (and the museum is focused on that particular battle), the exhibit gives a glimpse of life in the newly-independent America. Duh…
This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*photography was not permitted inside the galleries
Colonial National Historical Park – Yorktown Battlefield
The battlefield was the site of two sieges over a course of 100 years, planning a role in two of the most significant wars to take place in this country. The first, and more notable, ended the American Revolution, while the second occurred near the beginning of the Civil War.
American Revolution
In September 1781, the American army under George Washington and French forces under Comte de Rochambeau marched from New York to join the Americans under Marquis de Lafayette holding the British Army at Yorktown. The three armies took position surrounding the trapped Brits under Lord Cornwallis, as the French Fleet, under Comte de Grasse, formed a blockade around the port. After a week of artillery bombardment and infantry attacks during the First Siege of Yorktown, Cornwallis reluctantly surrendered his army.
~British Forces~
British Inner Defense Line
We started in enemy territory, where the visitor center is, and walked along the British inner defense trench line. As the three Allied armies converged on Yorktown, Cornwallis pulled his forces back to this line, where they remained through the siege.
~Allied Forces~
Artillery at the French Trench Overlook
French Grand Battery
An American Battery along the Second Allied Siege Line
The French Grand Battery was the largest gun placement on the first Allied siege line when it opened fire on the Brits. Within a few days after commencing their bombardment, the allied forces pushed forward and constructed a second siege line.
Civil War
During MG George B. McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign, Confederate forces reconstructed and occupied some of the former British breastworks to defend the town. The Second Siege of Yorktown took place in April between McClellan’s Army of the Potomac and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson’s Army of Northern Virginia. The month-long siege accomplished very little other than delaying McClellan’s advance north, as the Confederates quietly withdrew toward Richmond before any major action took place.
Yorktown National Cemetery
I saw very little within the field itself regarding the Civil War battle, however, a National Cemetery did sit proudly in the midst of the Revolutionary trenches and markers. Over 2,000 soldiers, including 10 Confederates, were interred, with most being unknown.
Unfortunately, our visit was cut short by a storm. It started pouring while we were exploring the second Allied siege line, so we left. It was kind of disappointing, but really, overall we were pretty lucky this weekend. The weather held up long enough for us to fit in 4 1/4 of the five sites. Not bad. I’ll just have to make another trip down to finish the battlefield tour. Again, not bad.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: battlefield pics
A failed visit to Antietam
Sharpsburg, MD
The plan was to take a quick tour of Antietam Battlefield, but it was just too much. I was too exhausted to walk around much after I arrived. The drive drained me. Not to mention, the weather didn’t help. It wasn’t a great day to be out, as it was cold and cloudy. However, since I made it up there, I spent about an hour there.
The Battle of Antietam (Sharpsburg), the bloodiest single-day battle of the Civil War, ended Robert E. Lee’s 1862 Maryland Campaign and pushed the fighting back into the south for the moment. On September 17th, MG George B. McClellan’s Union Army of the Potomac attacked Gen. Lee’s Confederate Army of Northern Virginia near the small town of Sharpsburg. The ensuing fight resulted in more than 23,000 casualties, including six (3 Union & 3 Confederate) generals killed or mortally wounded.
North Woods
Clara Barton Memorial
3rd Pennsylvania Reserves Monument
4th Pennsylvania Reserves Monument
Miller Cornfield, from Magilton’s Union Brigade Bivouac
MG Joseph Hooker’s First Corps made the initial Union assault on Confederate MG Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson’s men near Dunker Church in the early morning, resulting in a devastating fight in the Bloody Cornfield. Hooker’s center, consisting of BG George Meade’s Division of Pennsylvania Reserves, formed in the North Woods on the north edge of the cornfield. After the attack stalled late in the morning, Meade withdrew the Corps to the Poffenberger Farm behind the woods.
COL Albert Magilton’s Brigade, the second of Meade’s Third Division, emerged from the North Woods to engage BG John B. Hood’s Confederate Division in the Cornfield. During the fight, the brigade was shifted to support the Union left before being relieved by another division. The 3rd Pennsylvania Reserves (32nd PA Infantry), according to their monument, lost 46 men out of 200 engaged during the fight, including 12 killed and 34 wounded. The 4th Pennsylvania Reserves (33rd PA Infantry) suffered 48 casualties, according to their monument, with five killed and 43 wounded.
Clara Barton, whose memorial sits at the Poffenberger Farm, is often remembered as the ‘Angel of the Battlefield.’ She travelled to several battlefields, including Antietam, bringing medical supplies and treating wounded soldiers during and after the fighting. She would later create and manage the American Red Cross.
Bloody Lane
Sunken Road
132nd Pennsylvania Infantry Monument
In the middle of the day, the fighting resumed as MG Edwin Sumner’s Union Second Corps assaulted the Confederate center, concentrated along a well-worn farm road. The Rebels held their position through numerous assaults. In the afternoon, the Yankees successfully broke the Confederate line, but were quickly repulsed after a counter-attack by Rebel reserves. The three and a half hours of fighting resulted in about 5,600 casualties between the two forces.
The 132nd Pennsylvania Infantry participated in the initial assault on Bloody Lane and later joined the Irish Brigade as it charged in, breaking the Confederate position. The unit suffered 152 casualties in the battle, including its commanding officer, COL Richard Oakfield, who was mortally wounded.
Today’s Flickr set: battlefield photos
DC to Arlington, again.
So, today’s trip was just my normal stroll through the Nation’s Capital, ending in the country’s most hallow ground, Arlington National Cemetery. It’s becoming a rather standard trip for me, from the Navy Memorial to Arlington Metro stations. I’m not complaining. It’s a wonderful route. The memorials and cemetery are still moving, and I assume will always be. That’s why I continue to go. Anyway, on to the good stuff… my pictures.
District of Columbia
Parks
Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool
Constitution Gardens
I quickly bypassed the east end of the National Mall and made my way down towards the Lincoln Memorial. I had briefly passed through the Constitutional Gardens during a previous walk, but today, I spent a little more time there. Really, it’s was a great time to hang out in that small section of the city. The leaves were gorgeous. The park surrounds a relatively hidden lake to the north of the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool. It’s a nice little spot. I’d add it to my list of places to spread out a blanket, pack a lunch and spend an afternoon lying around.
War Memorials
World War II Memorial & Washington Monument
Vietnam Women/Nurses’ Memorial, with “The Wall” in the background
Navy Medical Corpsman, part of the Korean War Memorial’s Platoon of Statues
The memorials were especially beautiful today. The trees around the Korean and Vietnam Veteran War Memorials were absolutely gorgeous. The trees around the Vietnam Memorial were a nice light yellow and those behind the Korean War Memorial were a bright orange. It’s as if the soldier statues are marching out of a fire.
This morning’s Flickr set: DC photos
Arlington
So, across the Arlington Memorial Bridge, over the Potomac River, I went…
US Marine Corps War Memorial
Harlon Block, killed in action, & Rene Gagnon, part of the Iwo Jima Statue
My goal in Arlington was actually to visit the US Marine Corps War Memorial, so I bee-lined it to the statue. I’ve learned if I put that little destination near the tail end of my route, it will ultimately get skipped. After spending hours walking up and down the cemetery’s hills, marching over to the Marine Corps Memorial seems like a near impossible task. So, to combat my lack of super endurance, I made it my first point of interest today in Virginia and the plan worked.
The memorial’s statue is a recreation of news-photographer Joe Rosenthal’s 1945 Pulitzer Prize-winning picture, “Raising the Flag on Iwo Jima.” The photograph, and ultimately the statue, depicts the five Marines and a Navy Med Corpsman raise a flag atop Mount Suribach during the Battle of Iwo Jima. Clay face molds were made for the three surviving ‘flag-raisers’ and pictures were used for the other three in the process of sculpting the individual statues.
Arlington National Cemetery
After visiting the memorial, I wandered around the cemetery until I felt I could no longer walk.
~Individuals~
Cpl Rene A. Gagnon, USMC
Pierre Charles L’Enfant, with a view of Washington, DC
SgtMaj Frank A. Young, USMC
As with all my walks through the cemetery, I found a number of interesting people. I might have said this before, and I’m sure I’ll say it again, but it’s certainly humbling to spend time within the confines of Arlington. If you pay close enough attention, you can find some amazing stories and/or people connected some of the countries most memorable moments. These are the people that were there.
Rene Gagnon , one of the Iwo Jima flag-raisers, rests just inside the north gate near the USMC Memorial. I assume that isn’t a coincidence. He carried the second flag up Mount Suribach in February 1945 and helped raise the replacement flag, a feat immortalized by Rosenthal’s photo. As one of three surviving flag-raisers, he returned to the US for the Seventh War Bond Drive, an experience told in James Bradley’s book and Clint Eastwood’s 2008 movie Flags of Our Fathers.
Peirre L’Enfant, a French-born Continental Army officer, served as a military engineer under Lafayette and later on George Washington’s staff. He was wounded during the Siege of Yorktown and remained with the Army at Valley Forge. After the war, Washington assigned him the task of designing the Nation’s capital, but was dismissed after drafting a plan, which was used by the McMillian Commission as a foundation for its final blueprint. He now rests near the Arlington House, with a gorgeous view of the city he helped design.
Frank Young, was a US Marine during the Chinese Relief Expedition, or Boxer Rebellion. He was awarded the Medal of Honor for actions during the Siege of Peking between June 20 to July 16, 1900.
~Tomb of the Unknown Soldier~
Tomb & Old Guard Sentinel
Exchange of Orders during the Changing of the Guard Ceremony
My last stop in the cemetery, as usual, was at the Tomb of the Unknown. I watched the Changing of the Guard Ceremony, then headed out. The Old Guard Sentinels were all decked out in their winter gear. Honestly, I think I took some of my better shots of ‘event’ today. I’m somewhat impressed.
This afternoon’s Flickr set: cemetery pics
A hot spot in history
Jefferson County, WV
I planned to ‘stay close to home’ today, but at the last minute ventured a tad further than expected. Okay, okay, not THAT far. Instead of roaming around the Baltimore-Washington area, I headed west. I’ve had my sights set on Harpers Ferry for a while.
The small West Virginia town is full of history. It’s used to be an industrial rock-star, a huge transportation hub and a central point in the lead up to and a battle during the Civil War.
Lower Town
Shenandoah Street
John Brown’s Fort
The small section of restored buildings, turned exhibits, seems to the center point of the Historical Park.
In perhaps the town’s most infamous events, abolitionist John Brown lead 21 men in a raid on the US Arsenal and Armory in Harpers Ferry, in order to capture weapons and ammunition for his planned slave up-rising. LTC Robert E. Lee was sent with a unit of US Marines to settle the rebellion. After 36-hours, the Marines captured Brown, and his surviving followers, in the Armory’s enginehouse, now referred to as his fort.
Confectionary & Civil War Museum
Storer College
The Civil War also left its mark on the town. After Virginia’s official secession in April 1861, the Arsenal and Amory, the center of the town’s industrial prominence, was burned by US Troops to prevent its use by the Confederates. The transportation hub, sitting along the B&O Railroad, changed hands eight times during the war.
After the war, New England Freewill Baptist Missionaries purchased several of the vacant Armory buildings and established the Storer College in 1867. The college’s primary mission was to educate former slaves, but its doors remained opened to all students. The college was closed shortly after schools were desegregated in 1954.
Camp Hill
Saint Peter’s Church
Jefferson Rock
A short hike up from Lower Town, sits Jefferson Rock. It’s named after our second President, Thomas Jefferson, who stood on it taking in the beautiful view it provided of the Potomac River flowing through the valley.
Virginius Island
Cotton Factory/Flour Mill foundation
While the large United States Arsenal and Armory was the center of the town’s industrial scene, employing more than 400 people and leading the way in revolutionizing rifle manufacturing, a group of private mills was built up on the Virginius Island along the Potomac. The remains of the mills, including the cotton, flour, and water-powered pulp mills, are still there. A short trail winding its way through the site, telling the town’s industrial story.
Maryland Heights
The Point
Railroad Passage
Several significant means of transportation pass through the town, including the Baltimore & Ohio and Winchester & Potomac Railroads and the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. In addition, the town sits at the conflux of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.
I considered hiking up Maryland Heights. I hear the view from the top is gorgeous, but I opted not to this trip. Instead, I wanted to catch the day’s live artillery demonstration elsewhere in the Park.
Bolivar Heights
Union Skirmish Line
During Lee’s 1862 Maryland Campaign of the Civil War, he split his Army of Northern Virginia and sent Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson and his troops to capture and secure Harpers Ferry, an important supply station for the Confederates. The town was poorly defended and Jackson met little resistance on September 12th as he positioned his men on Maryland and Loudoun Heights in preparation for taking Harpers Ferry. The Union force commander felt his thin line on Bolivar Heights could adequately defend the position, however the Federals quickly surrendered as the Rebels attacked. Over 12,000 Union troops were taken prisoner in the loop-sided victory, before Jackson had to march his men to Antietam to aide Lee.
Artillery Demonstration
Baltimore Battery Reenactors
A Baltimore Confederate Artillery Unit put on a live Civil War artillery demostration today. I wasn’t aware of the activity prior to arriving, but since I was there, I didn’t want to miss it. The reenactors discussed the process of loading and firing the two pieces, as well as a few tid-bits about life as an Artilleryman, then fired each gun a couple of times. It was definitely an interesting half-hour, but the guns were extremely loud! The “bangs” made my heart skip a beat and it’s still trying to recover, but to be fair, they did warn us.
Today’s Flickr set: area photos
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