Finding My Way

An afternoon in Colonial Maryland

Saturday, Sept. 12, 2009
Point Lookout State Park
Scotland, MD
and
Historic Saint Mary’s City
Saint Mary’s County, MD

A friend of mine recommended Historic St. Mary’s City in Southern Maryland as a weekend destination numerous times, but up until this point I haven’t followed up with the suggestion. I kept saying I was waiting for a Sunday to go, because they tend to be quieter in towns or cities, but always found somewhere else to go or something else to do. Finally, I just admitted my Sundays are tied up, so I just went.

Point Lookout

Now, the driving directions from the DC area are very simple. Get off the beltway and follow a state route to its end, where one turn is made. Yeah, well, I still messed it up. I thought I was being smart and took an assumed short cut. It might have been a good choice, had I not made a wrong turn.

State Park

Having mistakenly followed MD Route 5 to the park gates, I asked the park ranger if I could just turn around. I wasn’t prepared to pay the cash fee nor did I want to since I wasn’t sticking around. He was nice enough to let me and said I could drive to the end of the park road to circle around if I wanted. Of course, I’m not one to miss a great photo opportunity, so I took him up on the offer.

 Chesapeake Bay
Chesapeake Bay shore

Pt Lookout Lighthouse
Point Lookout Lighthouse

The park was beautiful. The road, which ran along the Bay, was lined with fisherman. At the end sits the Point Lookout Lighthouse, which is currently a museum open for tours. Built in 1830, it marked the mouth of the Potomac River on the Chesapeake Bay.

Memorial Park

The Confederate Memorial Park sits right outside of the State Park, where the original POW camp was located. The park was established by the Decedents of Point Lookout POW Organization to honor the Confederate military members and civilians imprisoned at the Civil War camp.

 Confederate Memorial Park
Confederate Memorial Park

Confederate POW Memorial
Point Lookout Confederate Prisoners-of-War Memorial

The focal point of the park is a large Confederate POW Memorial. It’s lined with the various Confederate state flags, with a POW statue in the middle.

Civil War Cemetery

Point Lookout Confederate Cemetery
Point Lookout Confederate Soldiers and Sailors Monument

Maryland Confederate POW Memorial
Maryland State Confederate POW Memorial

Not far from the park sits the Point Lookout Confederate Cemetery, which is maintained by the Department of Veteran Affairs. The POW camp, formerly a Union Civil War hospital on Point Lookout, housed over 50,000 prisoners during its operation. More than 4,000 died while there and were buried in nearby plots.

The state of Maryland exhumed the unidentifiable remains from their original burial spots and reinterred them further inland in a newly established cemetery. The state also erected a marble monument in 1876 to those Confederate buried in the large common grave. In 1910, the Federal Government assumed responsibility for the cemetery and erected the large granite monument to the Rebel soldiers and sailors lost at the POW camp, listing the known individuals.

All in all, I’d say this little gem of a location was a good find. I’d like to revisit the park at some point. Maybe tour the lighthouse, relax near the water or enjoy the open space.

Historic St. Mary’s

Eventually, I did make it to Saint Mary’s city, an outdoor living history museum dedicated to the first capital of the fourth permanent English settlement in America.

Woodland Indian Hamlet

Indian Hut
Indian Hut

The site’s Indian Village was a very happening place. Apparently today is “Woodland Indian Discovery Day,” and there were tons of family activities going on in the area. That being said, I stayed as far away as possible, but it also meant the rest of the park was relatively vacant, which was nice.

St. Mary’s City

St Marys Chapel
Chapel

St Marys State Hall
Old State Hall

St Marys Ordinary
Ordinary

St Marys Building Frames
Framed Town Buildings

There are several reconstructed buildings within the state run museum, including the newly finished brick chapel. The volunteer stationed at the chapel said it was to be officially opened this up-coming week. Apparently, the original was locked by the town sheriff under orders from the English monarchy, and will be unlocked by the current town sheriff. The building is considered an important one in the museum, as the state was founded on principles of religious tolerance.

The 17th-Century State House was also rebuilt. It housed the state government until 1695, when the capital was moved to Annapolis. Various other common period buildings are on exhibit as well, including an Ordinary, which is basically a small bed-and-breakfast.

The rest of the museum structures are framed buildings, which mark actual buildings found during the archeological exploration of the site. The original foundations and such are considerably well preserved because the land has been left relatively undisturbed since the city was abandoned.

Colonial Ship

Maryland Dove
Maryland Dove

A replica of the Dove, one of the two ships that brought the state’s original settlers over, is docked on the bay.

Godiah Spray Tobacco Plantation

Spray House
Spray House

Godiah Spray
Gohiah Spray, my guide

House Garden
House Gardens

St Marys 9-12_251
Small Sunflowers

The tobacco plantation was an interesting exhibit. ‘Gohiah Spray,’ himself showed me around the property. His seven-year–old son’s tobacco barn. The wild pigs on his property, destined to be dinner for his daughter’s up-coming wedding. His wife’s house gardens. His two story home, which shows his wealth. The sunflowers he picked for his wife. We covered quite a bit.

Today’s Flickr set: exhibit photos

Day 3: The end of a war and beginning of a nation

Sunday, Aug. 2, 2009
America’s Historic Triangle

Yorktown Victory Center
and
Yorktown Battlefield
Yorktown, VA

Appropriately, the final leg of our trip through Colonial America was essentially where it ended, Yorktown. The small port town along the York River hosted the final major battle of the American Revolution, effectively ending the war and giving the United States its independence. Similar to Jamestown, there are two spots to visit around the Yorktown Battlefield. There’s a privately-maintained museum and the actual battlefield, maintained by the National Park Service.

Yorktown Victory Center
Museum

Timeline of the American Revolution*
“Road to Revolution” Timeline

Yorktown Victory Center Galleries*
Galleries

The path to the main galleries was lined with panels listing the major events and several noteworthy quotes from the period leading up to the Revolutionary War creating a timeline.

The galleries were very well done. The exhibits were excellent. They were very visually pleasing, there’s just a LOT of information there. It’s almost overwhelming. We skimmed through a most of it, but had to skip parts to save time. Unfortunately, we had to be the rain coming in and still had an eight hour drive ahead.

Continental Army Encampment

Continental Army Officer Tent
Officer’s Tent

Am Rev Brain Drill
A tool to drill into a skull (how appropriate)

Musket Firing Demonstration
Musket Firing Demonstration

In the camp, we stopped by almost every station to ask a few question. On one end, we had an opportunity to learn and play a few games the Continental Army soldiers would have passed the time with. At Camp Surgeon’s tent we had a hands-on lesson regarding the time-period’s medical instruments, with a brief explanation of their treatment philosophies. Finally, at the weapons corner, we were treated to a private musket firing demonstration.

American Revolution era Artillery Demo
Cannon Firing Demonstration

Before leaving, we returned to the camp for an artillery firing demonstration. It was pretty cool, but the lead up was rather lengthy. Unlike most artillery demonstration I’ve seen, they really focused on involving the younger crowd, unfortunately, it bored me.

1780’s Farm

1780's Farm Kitchen
Farm Kitchen

Chicken*

At first the farm seemed like a random addition to a Revolutionary War museum, but I eventually figured it out and it made complete sense. Considering Yorktown ended the war (and the museum is focused on that particular battle), the exhibit gives a glimpse of life in the newly-independent America. Duh…

This morning’s Flickr set: exhibit pics
*photography was not permitted inside the galleries

Colonial National Historical Park – Yorktown Battlefield

The battlefield was the site of two sieges over a course of 100 years, planning a role in two of the most significant wars to take place in this country. The first, and more notable, ended the American Revolution, while the second occurred near the beginning of the Civil War.

American Revolution

In September 1781, the American army under George Washington and French forces under Comte de Rochambeau marched from New York to join the Americans under Marquis de Lafayette holding the British Army at Yorktown. The three armies took position surrounding the trapped Brits under Lord Cornwallis, as the French Fleet, under Comte de Grasse, formed a blockade around the port. After a week of artillery bombardment and infantry attacks during the First Siege of Yorktown, Cornwallis reluctantly surrendered his army.

~British Forces~

Yorktown British Breastworks*
British Inner Defense Line

We started in enemy territory, where the visitor center is, and walked along the British inner defense trench line. As the three Allied armies converged on Yorktown, Cornwallis pulled his forces back to this line, where they remained through the siege.

~Allied Forces~

French Artillery at Yorktown
Artillery at the French Trench Overlook

French Grand Battery
French Grand Battery

American Grand Battery
An American Battery along the Second Allied Siege Line

The French Grand Battery was the largest gun placement on the first Allied siege line when it opened fire on the Brits. Within a few days after commencing their bombardment, the allied forces pushed forward and constructed a second siege line.

Civil War

During MG George B. McClellan’s 1862 Peninsula Campaign, Confederate forces reconstructed and occupied some of the former British breastworks to defend the town. The Second Siege of Yorktown took place in April between McClellan’s Army of the Potomac and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson’s Army of Northern Virginia. The month-long siege accomplished very little other than delaying McClellan’s advance north, as the Confederates quietly withdrew toward Richmond before any major action took place.

Yorktown National Cemetery
Yorktown National Cemetery

I saw very little within the field itself regarding the Civil War battle, however, a National Cemetery did sit proudly in the midst of the Revolutionary trenches and markers. Over 2,000 soldiers, including 10 Confederates, were interred, with most being unknown.

Unfortunately, our visit was cut short by a storm. It started pouring while we were exploring the second Allied siege line, so we left. It was kind of disappointing, but really, overall we were pretty lucky this weekend. The weather held up long enough for us to fit in 4 1/4 of the five sites. Not bad. I’ll just have to make another trip down to finish the battlefield tour. Again, not bad.

This afternoon’s Flickr set: battlefield pics

A gloomy afternoon at Antietam

Posted in American Civil War, cemeteries, Historic Places, National Cemeteries, NPS Sites, Photo Trips by photograd on February 2, 2009
Monday, Feb. 2, 2009
Antietam National Cemetery
Sharpsburg, MD

I finished up on campus early and just needed to get out. I didn’t really have a destination, but I knew I didn’t want to go home yet, so I just drove. I’ve been a bit antsy for some reason lately and wasn’t ready to barricade myself in my room so soon in the day. I tend to isolate myself when I’m feeling this stressed… that and I have work that I need to do. Well, my little driving expedition landed me in Western Maryland. Since I was in the area (and had my camera) I stopped by Antietam National Battlefield, or more specifically the cemetery.

Cemetery

Antietam National Cemetery
Antietam National Cemetery

Antietam
Unknown Civil War Graves

The Antietam National Cemetery was created to hold the remains of those lost during the Battle of Antietam, the bloodiest single-day battle of the war, and various other engagements in the area, such as the Battles of South Mountain and Monocacy. Additionally, soldiers who died at area Union hospitals stretching from Cumberland to Frederick were interred into the cemetery, which was dedicated on September 17, 1867, the battle’s fifth anniversary.

Memorials

Private Soldier ("Old Simon") Monument
“Old Simon”

4th New York Volunteer Infantry Monument
4th New York Infantry Monument

The cemetery’s centerpiece is the large over 21-foot marble infantryman standing at parade rest looking ‘home’ (North). The Private Soldier Monument, also known as “Old Simon,” stood guard at the 1876 Centennial Exposition gateway in Philadelphia before it travelled to the cemetery, where it was dedicated on September 17, 1880. The monument bares the simple yet poignant inscription:

Not for themselves
But for their country
September 17, 1862

A few regimental monuments are also scattered throughout the cemetery, including the 4th New York Monument. As part of the BG Max Weber’s Third Brigade, French’s Division, MG Edwin Sumner’s Second Corps, the regiment was one of the first to assault MG D.H. Hill’s Confederate infantry entrenched in Bloody Lane. The monument lists the unit’s 35 members killed or mortally wounded in the action.

Civil War Soldiers

F.G. Reed>
F.G. Reed

CPL James McConnell
Cpl. James McConnell

PVT Charles H. McClellan
Pvt. Charles H. McClellan

Unknown Union Civil War soldier
Unknown Soldier

Four-thousand, seven hundred and seventy-six Union soldiers, with 1,836 unknown, are buried within the cemetery gates. Due to the lingering bitterness immediately following the war and the poor economic status of the South, only Union soldiers were re-interred from the battlefield.

James McConnell, a non-commissioned officer in the 4th West Virginia Infantry Regiment, Company G, died in August 1864 at the Clarysville General Hospital in Frostburg, MD. The facility was a former tavern turned Union hospital. Charles McClellan, a 7th Michigan Infantryman from Company G, died in the area on October 10, 1862. Very little was listed for the Maryland Civil War soldier F.G. Reed in the cemetery register. Many of the unknown graves are marked with small square headstones inscribed with the gravesite number, as well as the number of soldiers interred in the grave.

Post-Civil War Graves

PFC Reno E. Wyan
PFC Reno E. Wyan, US Army

FN Patrick H. Roy
FN Patrick H. Roy, USN

Around 200 post-Civil War military personnel and spouses from the Spanish-American War, World War I and II and the Korean War were buried in the cemetery before it was closed in 1853. For example, Reno Emery Wyan, a local WWI infantryman, was killed in action in 1918 fighting with the 328th Regiment, 82nd Division.

In October 2000, the cemetery made an exception to allow the burial of Patrick Howard Roy. The 19-year-old local Keedysville resident was killed in the suicide bombing of the USS Cole in Aden Harbor, Yemen, while stationed in the destroyer’s engine room.

Today’s Flickr set: cemetery pictures

Starting the year off with a cemetery trip

Posted in cemeteries, Photo Trips, Richmond, Virginia by photograd on January 10, 2009
Saturday, Jan. 10, 2009
Hollywood Cemetery
Richmond, VA

Who knows why I chose this particular destination today. For whatever reason it popped in my head as the perfect spot to start this year of photo trips. A trip back has been on my mind of over a year now, since my weekend visit in October 2007. There’s so much to it and so much to be found. I could probably stay for hours, or make multiple trips and not to come close to exploring the whole thing.

The rural garden cemetery, established in the late 1840′s, has a little of everything. It authors, statesmen, veterans from various wars and successful business are mixed up with the everyday Virginian. The cemetery even holds one of the country’s founding fathers, John Randolph.

At the entrance is a simple map etched into a piece of granite pointing the way to numerous notable residents, and I tried to make a sketch, but it didn’t really help. Oh well, I found enough interesting pieces within the ground for one trip.

United States Presidents

United States Presidents
John Tyler and James Monroe

Pres. James Monroe, US
Monroe and family

Two United States Presidents rest in the cemetery, Virginians John Tyler and James Monroe. Tyler, the country’s 10th President, was the first for a couple of things. One, he was the first Vice-President to succeed to the Presidency after William Harrison died a month after his inauguration. He actually set the precedent for such situations, leading to the Twenty-fifth Amendment. Two, he was also the first to have impeachment charges brought against him by Congress for use of his veto power too often for the likes of his party. On a more positive note, to some extent, during his term, Texas, amidst controversy, and Florida were added to the Union.

Our fifth President, Monroe, whose grave is marked by an impressive 12-foot iron ‘bird-cage,’ was much more well liked. His term is actually considered the “Era of Good Feelings.” His most notable contributions were the Monroe Doctrine and Missouri Compromise. The doctrine, an important piece of early foreign policy and one that has remained relatively unchanged, simply put, declared any attempt of Eastern countries to meddle with the colonies and/or territory in the Western Hemisphere would be considered an attack on the US and dealt with as such. The Missouri Compromise brought the former Louisiana Territory into the Union, under the compromise that it would be non-slave states, except for Missouri.

Confederates

As one might expect in the middle of the Confederate Capital, the Civil War and particularly the Confederacy are well represented within the cemetery walls. Over 18,000 Rebels, including the ordinary enlisted men, middle-ranking officers, and well-known generals, are resting here.

Confederate Memorial Pyramid
Confederate Memorial Pyramid

A huge granite pyramid, built of slabs dredged from the nearby James River, sits among most of the Confederate soldiers, honoring those now resting nearby, both known and unknown. The monument was built by the Hollywood Memorial Association, a branch of the Daughters of the Confederacy.

Confederate Soldiers

J.N. Wheat
J.N. Wheat

Around 18,000 enlisted men are buried in the northwest corner of the cemetery. They were gathered from nearby battlefields, including those of Seven Pines, Malvin Hill, Gaines Mill and Cold Harbor. The cemetery’s Register of Confederate Soldiers buried in the cemetery, after some were lost in a fire, now includes over 10,000 individuals, including J. Wheat, a Civil War vet who fought with the 6th Virginia Cavalry Regiment.

~Gettysburg Casualties~

Confederate Gettysburg Dead

PVT Jefferson B. Jessee, CSA w/ flags
Pvt. Jefferson Jessee

In addition to local veterans and casualties, about 2,000 Confederate soldiers were exhumed from the Gettysburg Battlefield and interred into what is called “Gettysburg Hill” among their brethren. As many of the exact location of the burial sites for the known interments are unknown, so their gravestones are arranged together near the top of the hill side. Among those brought home from Pennsylvania was the 37th Virginia Infantry, Company E Color Bearer, Jefferson Jessee, who was killed carrying his flag in a charge on Culp’s Hill. A marker also sits amid the white government issued headstones denoting the area as the ‘probable resting place’ for BG Richard Garnett, killed leading his Virginia Brigade during Pickett’s Charge on the final day of the battle.

Confederate Leaders

JEB Stuart
Confederate MG J.E.B. Stuart and his wife

LT Edwin B. & BG William B. Starke, CSA
Confederate Lt. Edwin and BG William Starke, Virginia officers

Pres. Jefferson F. Davis, Confederacy, & family
Confederate President Jefferson Davis and his daughter, Winnie

There are a significant number of Confederate officers, including around 25 generals of various notoriety, scattered throughout the entire cemetery. J.E.B. Stuart, the famous Confederate cavalry general who circled John McCellan’s Union Army of the Potomac during the Peninsula Campaign and considered Robert E. Lee’s ‘eyes and ears’ throughout the war, is buried with his wife near the middle of the grounds. The West Point grad was killed near the end of the war during the Battle of Yellow Tavern. William Starke and his son, Edwin, both war casualties are buried relatively near the Confederate enlisted. After marching his Louisiana Brigade north from Harpers Ferry with Stonewall Jackson, the eldest Starke was killed during the Battle of Antietam while leading a division, which he inherited during the fighting, in the West Woods. He was one of six generals, three being Confederate, killed during the battle. The younger Stake, a Confederate officer, was killed in action during the Battle of Seven Pines.

The one and only President of the Confederacy is also buried in the Southeast portion of the cemetery. Jefferson Davis, a West Point grad, Mex-American War vet, former US Senator and House Representative from Mississippi, and President Franklin Pierce’s Secretary of War, served as head of the Confederate Government throughout the war. He’s buried with his wife, with his young son, two daughters, and son-in-law nearby.

Misc

Mourning Woman Tombstone

Alice Tombstone

Richmond skyline
Richmond skyline, view from cemetery

James River
James River, view from cemetery

The cemetery is quite amazing. It’s definitely worth a visit. The green rolling hills winding along the James River are covered with exquisite tombstones. Some of the tombs have masterful works of stainglass and there are beautiful pieces of iron works of art spread throughout the grounds as well. It’s full of history and intrigue. There are a couple of urban legends attached to the cemetery as well, including that of the Richmond Werewolf. I’m sure I’ll head back for another trip at some point, as I still have yet to meander around the entire place.

Today’s Flickr set: cemetery photos

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A quick stop in a historic cemetery

Posted in American Civil War, cemeteries, Historic Places, Photo Trips by photograd on December 16, 2007
Sunday, Dec. 16, 2007
Mount Olivet Cemetery
Frederick, MD

I was already in the area, running a few errands, so I stopped by a small, historic cemetery in Frederick. It’s one of the few places Confederate soldiers from the Battle of Antietam, as well as other surrounding engagements, were moved to after the war, which is how I came to know about it. The location caught me off guard. I almost missed the entrance. To me, it was hidden in the in-between of the ever-developing shopping area off I-270 and 70, near the Frederick Keys Stadium and the city’s residential area.

Cemetery

Mount Olivet Cemetery

Key Memorial Chapel
Key Memorial Chapel

Notable Individuals

Francis Scott Key Memorial
Francis Scott Key

Gov Thomas Johnson
Gov. Thomas Johnson

Barbara Fritchie Monument
Barbara Fritchie

Perhaps the cemetery’s most well-known resident is Francis Scott Key, the author of The Star Spangled Banner. The Frederick County native is buried right inside the cemetery gates with a large memorial statue and US Flag marking his grave. During the War of 1812, in an attempt to free his friend, Dr. William Beanes, taken prisoner when the British invaded Washington, DC in 1814, Key found himself detained aboard a British frigate in the Chesapeake Bay in the midst of the Battle of Baltimore. Inspired by the sight of the US Flag still flying over Fort McHenry after the 25-hour bombardment, he scribbled down a poem entitled Defense of Fort McHenry. The poem was later put to music, renamed and later adopted as our National Anthem.

Thomas Johnson, a friend of Key’s, was the state’s first Governor, serving between 1777 through 17779. He also served many years in the Maryland General Assembly, being sent to represent the state at the 1774 and 1775 Continental Congresses and attended the Maryland Convention, urging for the approval of the US Constitution. His friend, President George Washington appointed him to the US Supreme Court, however he only served about two years on the bench before resigning due to ill health.

Barbara Fritchie is most noted for a local legend. She is the subject of John Greenleaf Whittier’s 1863 poem Barbara Fritchie, which tells of the old woman’s defiance during the Civil War in support of the Union. According to the story, she stood at her window wildly waving a US Flag as Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson marched his troops through Frederick during the 1862 Maryland Campaign.

Confederate Memorial Grounds

Confederate Monument
Confederate Monument

Confederate Soldiers
Confederate Soldiers

PVT Jacob Hicks, CSA
Pvt. Jacob Hicks

As previously mentioned, what sparked my interest in the cemetery was the connection to the Civil War. I’ve visited the area’s Union National Cemetery, so it’s only appropriate that I stop by the other side as well. Confederate soldiers killed at the Battles of Antietam, South Mountain and Monocacy are buried along the west cemetery face within Mount Olivet. Interestingly, the identified soldiers each have two gravestones, what appears to be an original marker, then standing at attention behind each is a government-issued replacement. There are also memorials dedicated to Confederate Soldiers, Monocacy unknowns, Frederick County locals, and Children who served during the Civil War.

Jacob Hicks, an infantryman from the 21st North Carolina Regiment, was mortally wounded at the Battle of Antietam. I assume he died at a local military hospital.

Frederick County World War II Memorial

Frederick County World War II Memorial

World War II Casualties

The cemetery also holds the county’s local WWII memorial. It was actually rather striking, with the red bricks and golden flame. It consisted of a semi-circle of graves of local war casualties with a large granite sculpture in the middle.

Today’s Flickr set: cemetery photos

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