Finding My Way

Day 2: Hiking to Angels’ Landing

Posted in hikes, National Parks, NPS Sites, parks, Photo Trips, Vacations by photograd on September 21, 2008
Saturday, Sept. 21, 2008
Zion National Park
Angel’s Landing Trail
Springdale, UT

I only had time to wander around the park in the morning because of wedding festivities in the afternoon, so I wanted to fit in a nice hike. My friends told me that if I can only do one hike in the park, that I make it up to Angels Landing, so I did.

I was concerned about my legs holding up, being that I’m still struggling to recover from my accident injuries, but I figured I could at least start and figure out what I was capable of on the way. The park visitor guide/trail map lists the hike as “strenuous,” climbing over 1,400 feet and back down over a 5 mile/4 hour round trip. It warns that the trail is not for those afraid of heights and that the last 1/2 mile the trail is along a narrow ridge. Hmmm… perfect for someone who struggles to walk, right? haha.

The Beginning: The Grotto

Zion Canyon
So, the hike begins in the canyon by the Virgin River

West Rim Trail
The easy part of the trail… how deceiving

The trail-head is off the Grotto shuttle stop, so that’s where today’s journey began. The first portion of the hike follows the West Rim Trail, which you then split off onto the Angels Landing Trail after Scouts Lookout on top of the canyon. In the first picture, Angels Landing is on the left. It’s only about 2.5 miles to the top, but those are a tough couple of miles as it goes up 1,488 feet, and in some spots it seems like it’s straight up. I have to admit, the beginning was rather misleading. The picturesque, flat first quarter of a mile or so, hides what’s to come. For a short period I was full of confidence that I could handle the trail, no problem, and I’d zip through the whole thing… wrong. It’s just a relatively easy walk to the canyon wall, then the fun begins.

Gettin’ Into It: Switchbacks

West Rim Trail Switchbacks
First set of switchbacks

Refrigerator Canyon
Refrigerator Canyon

Walter's Wiggles
Halfway up Walter’s Wiggles

The first set of switchbacks was one of the toughest parts for me during the hike up. My legs were so tired, I had to stop at the top and rest for a few minutes before continuing. Although loopier, this set was longer and the climb more subtle, which worn me down by the end, unlike the second set. I guess the impact just snuck up on me, where as I paced myself properly later in the hike.

Between the two sets of switchbacks was a short trek through Refrigerator Canyon, which provided a much need break on the route. It was flat with very little incline. A refreshing breeze flowed through the small shaded canyon. Really, it’s the ideal middle for this hike.

Walter’s Wiggles, the second set of switchbacks, was tough. The twenty-one switchbacks are practically straight up and short, so there’s very little chance to get much momentum before hitting a corner. Yikes. On the way up it seemed like they would never end, however, I managed to make it up with much difficulty. I think what made them more tolerable, is, in my opinion, it was much more obvious how much effort was needed to finish, unlike the first, which really dragged on for me.

Mid-point: Scout Lookout

West Rim Trail

Zion Canyon
View from Scout Lookout

Cathedral Mountain
Cathedral Mountain

There was a small rest area once the trail reached the top of the canyon wall called Scout Lookout. Apparently there are restrooms there, but they are closed at the moment. It’s also where I split from the West Rim Trail, and the last half mile, and most difficult part, of the Angels Landing trail began. It appeared this was the turn around point for most people hiking up. No judgment here. Reaching this point is an accomplishment in and of itself. The view was very nice and the rest of the trail was very intimidating.

The Real Test: Last 1/2 Mile

Angels Landing
Is that the top? Not too bad, or so I wished

Big Bend
Scenic Drive and the Virgin River, 1,200 feet below

Angels Landing Trail
Watch your step

Angels Landing
… but it was more than just a little further

It was a difficult stretch. The trail was extremely narrow at points, at some places, you have to climb up a wall, if you will, and most of it even required chains to hold, it was slick from the high traffic passing over it for years. Of course, had it not come after the draining mile and a half to get to that point, this part would have just been fun. The problem was my legs were exhausted and shaking, so each step took everything I had left to make. I cannot tell you how many times over that half-mile I looked up and thought I was almost, only to be horribly disappointed. I was so tired and had to dig deep for the energy to go just a little bit further.

Goal, Achieved: Angels Landing

Zion Canyon

Zion Canyon
The reward

So, I pushed through, and it was definitely worth it! Although, despite how dramatically I may have made the last part seem, there wasn’t really a point when I thought I wouldn’t make it. It’s a very do-able hike. Anyway, once I reached the end, I sat down to rest for a couple minutes. It was so peaceful. I chatted with a few fellow morning hikers. There were only about four other people up there at the time. It was still relatively early and most people had turned back long before reaching Angels Landing. It would have actually been a great spot to settle in to journal or just enjoy the beauty of nature, however I couldn’t stay long – I had a wedding to get ready for. It also showed signs of potentially becoming too crowded for me.

One Last Piece: The Hike Back

Mt Zion 9-20_252
Just as tough heading back

So, of course, the sad part of the whole thing is, once I recovered… I had to do it all over again. Yeah, the hike back…. The first part was rough. Of course, some of those difficult, steep, narrow paths on the way up turned into tricky climbs down as well. In addition, since some parts of the trail were only wide enough for one person, a few traffic jams developed as a ton of people were on their way out. After reaching Scout Lookout again, the rest of the walk back was SOOO much easier though.

I felt great after finishing and was proud of myself for doing it. There were several places I thought I should probably not push myself much more, but I wanted to test myself and I pull through. I had the perfect excuse to quit, because who would blame me for turning back with my lingering accident injuries? But, I’m tired of hiding behind that, and finishing was definitely a confidence booster. It’s been less than a year since my accident and I finished a hike many others couldn’t. It makes me trust my body a little more, which I need. Overall – great stuff!

Today’s Flickr set: hiking photos

Fortunately, the hike did not take as long as I had expected. Even with a break at on the summit, I still made it back to in 3 1/2 hours, so I had extra time to relax and get ready. The funniest part of the day was actually getting to the wedding in the middle of the afternoon. The wedding was on the lawn in front of the Zion National Park Lodge, which is in the middle of the park, so my only option to get there was the shuttle. So, imagine me sitting there in my dress and open-toed shoes in the middle of everyone else suited up for a day hiking the canyon. I got a few funny looks during the 10 minute bus ride, to say the least.

The wedding was perfect really. It was small, with only a handful of people there, and quick. A lot of people gathered around the outskirts to watch, and some even snapped a few pictures, which seemed odd, but oh well. Honestly, though, this is how I’d like my wedding to go, whenever that is. Small, to the point, but very touching. I don’t know that I’d want mine in such a public place, but the park holds a lot of significance for the couple, which is what matters. After the ceremony, we all headed into town of the reception and partied the night away. Good times.

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